Why a 4-Inch Lift and 35-Inch Tires Transform Your Tacoma

Off-roading enthusiasts know that having the right setup can make all the difference in performance and capability. For owners of the Toyota Tacoma, upgrading to a 4-inch lift and fitting 35-inch tires can transform your truck into a trail-ready machine. This isn’t just about looks—it’s about unlocking serious off-road potential. A lifted Tacoma gains ground clearance to clear rocks and logs, improved approach and departure angles for steep climbs and descents, and increased wheel travel for better traction over uneven terrain. However, a proper installation requires careful planning, the right components, and attention to detail. This article provides a comprehensive guide to selecting, installing, and maintaining a 4-inch lift and 35-inch tire setup for your Tacoma.

Understanding Lift Kits: Suspension vs. Body Lifts

Before choosing a lift kit, it’s essential to understand the two primary types: suspension lifts and body lifts. A suspension lift raises the entire vehicle by altering the suspension geometry—replacing struts, shocks, control arms, springs, and sometimes adding spacers. This type provides genuine ground clearance improvement and better off-road articulation. A body lift raises the cab and bed above the frame using polyurethane spacers, typically offering 1–3 inches of lift. Body lifts do not increase ground clearance under the axles or differentials, but they do allow room for larger tires. For a 4-inch lift with 35-inch tires, most knowledgeable off-roaders recommend a complete suspension lift to maximize both clearance and ride quality.

Key Differences at a Glance

  • Suspension lift – Increases true ground clearance, improves suspension travel, requires new shocks/struts and control arms.
  • Body lift – Raises body only, cheaper and simpler, does not improve suspension articulation, minimal effect on driveline angles.

Choosing the Right Lift Kit for Your Tacoma

Selecting the ideal lift kit depends on your Tacoma’s model year (2016–2023 third-gen, 2024+ fourth-gen) and your specific off-road goals. A well-engineered kit should include front coilover struts, rear shocks, front upper control arms (UCAs), rear leaf spring add-a-leaves or full replacement packs, sway bar drop brackets, and hardware. Brands like Icon Vehicle Dynamics, King Shocks, and Old Man Emu are trusted for quality and durability. Avoid cheap generic kits that use inferior materials—they compromise safety and ride quality. Look for kits that include adjustable coilovers so you can fine-tune ride height and stiffness.

Compatibility Checklist

  • Model year: Verify that the kit design matches your Tacoma’s generation (e.g., third-gen UCAs fit 2016–2023; fourth-gen requires different parts).
  • Suspension geometry: A 4-inch lift often changes control arm angles; aftermarket UCAs with ball joints designed for increased angles prevent binding and premature wear.
  • Brake lines: Some kits include extended brake line brackets to avoid stretching; if not, purchase extended lines separately.
  • Drivetrain: Lifting changes rear axle pinion angle; consider adding shims or adjustable control arms to prevent vibration and install a carrier bearing drop kit for the front.

Preparing for Installation: Tools, Parts, and Workspace

Installing a 4-inch lift and 35-inch tires is a major job that can take a full weekend for experienced DIYers. Prepare your workspace: a flat, clean garage or driveway with good lighting. Gather these tools and parts:

Essential Tools

  • Floor jack with at least 3-ton capacity
  • Four jack stands rated for 6 tons
  • Set of metric wrenches and sockets (10mm to 24mm)
  • Torque wrench (25–250 ft-lb range)
  • Spring compressors (for front coilovers)
  • Ball joint press or pickle fork
  • Impact wrench (optional but recommended)
  • Pry bars, hammers, and a breaker bar

Parts to Have on Hand

  • 4-inch suspension lift kit (complete with all brackets and hardware)
  • Set of four 35-inch tires (suggested: 35×12.50R17LT or 35×11.50R17 for better fit without trimming)
  • New wheels with proper offset (typically 0 to -12mm offset for 8.5-inch wide rims)
  • Extended brake lines (if not included in kit)
  • Alignment shop appointment immediately after installation
  • Anti-seize compound and thread locker (Loctite 242 or 262)

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Step 1: Lift the Vehicle and Remove the Wheels

Working on a flat surface, break the lug nuts loose before lifting. Place the jack under the front crossmember and raise the vehicle high enough to slide jack stands under the frame rails. Lower the jack onto stands so the suspension hangs freely. Remove all four wheels and set them aside.

Step 2: Remove the Stock Front Suspension

Detach the front sway bar end links using wrenches. Unbolt the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle with a pickle fork or ball joint separator. Remove the upper control arm nuts and bolts, then pull the UCAs out. Support the lower control arm and remove the shock/strut assembly by unbolting the top two nuts (under the hood) and the bottom mount at the lower control arm. Compress coil springs before removal if using stock struts; aftermarket coilovers come pre-assembled.

Step 3: Install the New Front Lift Components

Begin by attaching the new upper control arms to the frame, using provided hardware. Torque to manufacturer specifications (typically 85–110 ft-lb for UCAs). Next, install the new front coilover assemblies (lifted struts) by reversing removal steps. Ensure the upper mount is properly seated and the lower mount aligns with the control arm. Reattach sway bar end links using extended links if supplied. Tighten all bolts to spec but leave the lower control arm pivot bolts loose until the vehicle is on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Suspension

Jack up the rear axle so the weight is off the leaf springs. Place jack stands under the frame rails. Unbolt the lower shock mounts and remove the stock shocks. Unbolt the U-bolts securing the axle to the leaf spring pack. Carefully lower the axle enough to slide the leaf springs out from under the vehicle. Some Tacomas have leaf spring pins that need to be pressed out; use a drift punch and hammer.

Step 5: Install the Rear Lift Components

Depending on your kit, you may add a leaf spring (add-a-leaf) or replace the entire leaf pack with a lifted version. For add-a-leaf, clamp the original pack, remove the center pin, insert the new leaf, and re-pin. For full replacement, install the new lifted leaf springs onto the hangers and shackles. Reattach the axle to the leaf springs using new U-bolts, leaving them slightly loose to allow alignment. Install the new longer rear shocks and tighten the mounting bolts. Reconnect the parking brake cables if they were disconnected; the lift may require relocating the cable bracket.

Step 6: Finalize Front and Rear Adjustments

With all components installed but bolts still loose, lower the vehicle onto the ground. This allows suspension components to settle into their natural position. Bounce the front and rear a few times. Then tighten all pivot bolts and U-bolts to final torque specs (typically 100–150 ft-lb for leaf spring U-bolts, 30–50 ft-lb for sway bar links). Double-check that no wires, brake lines, or hoses are stretched or pinched.

Step 7: Install the 35-Inch Tires

With the lift complete, mount the new 35-inch tires onto the wheels and balance them. Install them onto the truck using a star pattern and tighten to 85 ft-lb. Test clearance by turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock—check the inner fender liners, frame, and rear of the wheel well. In many Tacoma builds, you will need to trim the front lower bumper valance, pinch weld, and sometimes the rear part of the front wheel well liner. Use a heat gun to mold the liner away from the tires. For extreme flexibility, aftermarket high-clearance bumpers can eliminate trimming.

Post-Installation Checks and Break-In

After installing the lift and tires, perform a thorough inspection before driving:

  • Tighten all fasteners to spec—retorque after 100 miles.
  • Check fluid levels in differentials—lifted drivelines may require changed pinion angles that affect fluid capacity.
  • Inspect the exhaust and brake lines for contact with suspension or driveline components.
  • Drive vehicle slowly over bumps to check for any unusual noises or rubbing.
  • Schedule a professional alignment immediately. Camber and caster will be out of spec after a lift; proper alignment prevents tire wear and steering issues.

Benefits of a 4-Inch Lift and 35-Inch Tires

  • Ground clearance: An extra 4 inches lifts the frame, transfer case, and fuel tank above obstacles.
  • Approach and departure angles: Steeper slopes are navigable without bumper damage.
  • Visibility: Sitting higher gives a commanding view of the trail ahead.
  • Tire traction: 35-inch tires offer larger contact patches and more sidewall compliance for airing down.
  • Aesthetics: A lifted Tacoma with aggressive tires looks purposeful and rugged.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Driveline Vibration

Lifting a Tacoma 4 inches often changes the angle of the front and rear driveshafts, causing vibration. The front is more susceptible due to the CV axles. Solutions include installing a front diff drop spacer (included in many kits), replacing the front CV axles with high-angle units, and adding a carrier bearing drop to the rear driveshaft. Aftermarket CV axles from brands like Traxda or Low Range Off-Road handle higher angles.

Tire Rub

Even with a 4-inch lift, 35-inch tires can rub at full flex or lock-to-lock. Typical rubbing points: the front body mount (cab mount), the inner fender liner, and the frame. Trimming, grinding the cab mount (reinforced), and replacing the front bumper with a low-profile design are common solutions. Consider using 35×11.50 tires instead of 12.50 wide to reduce rubbing.

Brake Performance

Larger tires increase unsprung mass and rotational inertia, which can lengthen stopping distance. Upgrading to high-performance brake pads, slotted rotors, or even a big brake kit improves safety. Also, extended brake lines prevent line tension at full droop.

Maintenance After the Lift

A lifted Tacoma requires more frequent checks. Inspect suspension bolts and U-bolts every oil change. Monitor CV axle boots for tears—common with increased angles. Rotate tires every 5,000 miles to even out wear. Because 35-inch tires are heavier, expect a decrease in fuel economy of 2–4 mpg. Re-gearing the differentials (e.g., from 3.91 to 4.56 or 4.88) can restore power and highway drivability. Many owners also install a performance tuner to adjust shift points and speedometer calibration for larger tires.

Check your local regulations regarding vehicle height. Many states have maximum bumper height laws that may apply after a 4-inch lift. Additionally, raising the center of gravity increases rollover risk. Drive more cautiously during turns and crosswinds. Upgrading the suspension to include heavier-duty sway bars or a rear stabilizer bar can mitigate some body roll. Insurance companies may require notifying them of modifications—failure to do so could void coverage in an accident.

Cost Breakdown

Expect to invest between $3,000 and $6,000 for a high-quality 4-inch suspension kit, installation (if not DIY), new wheels and tires, alignment, and necessary accessories like extended brake lines. Budget another $1,500–$2,500 for re-gearing if you plan to run 35s regularly. While the price may seem steep, the capability and satisfaction gained make it worthwhile for serious off-roaders.

Final Thoughts

Installing a 4-inch lift and 35-inch tires on your Tacoma is one of the most effective ways to boost off-road performance. By selecting a reputable kit, following proper installation procedures, and addressing common issues like vibration and rub, you can enjoy a dependable and capable trail rig. Always prioritize safety—use high-quality components, retorque fasteners after initial use, and keep up with maintenance. With the right setup, your Tacoma will be ready to tackle extreme terrain for years to come.