Why a Clutch Upgrade Is Critical for a 600-hp Nissan GT-R

The Nissan GT-R’s dual-clutch transmission is a marvel of engineering, but even the most robust factory clutch setup struggles once you push past 500 wheel horsepower. At 600 hp, the torque load during aggressive launches and high-gear pulls far exceeds what the stock unit was designed to handle. A performance clutch upgrade not only prevents slippage and premature wear but also improves shift feel and consistency. This guide provides detailed, actionable steps for installing a high-capacity clutch kit on a 600-hp GT-R, covering everything from tool selection to post‑installation break‑in procedures.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right equipment on hand before you start avoids downtime and ensures proper installation. Beyond the clutch kit itself, these items are essential for a safe, efficient swap.

  • Performance clutch kit – Choose a known brand such as AMS Performance or Dodson Motorsport. Ensure the kit includes the clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, and alignment tool.
  • Clutch alignment tool – Often included with the kit; critical for centering the disc during assembly.
  • Torque wrench (¼‑drive and ½‑drive) – For precise fastening of pressure plate bolts, bellhousing bolts, and flywheel bolts.
  • Socket set – Metric sockets from 8 mm to 19 mm, plus deep sockets for stubborn nuts.
  • Ratchet and extensions – A 3/8‑inch drive ratchet with 6‑inch, 12‑inch, and wobble extensions helps access tight spots.
  • Jack and jack stands – A low‑profile transmission jack is ideal; two sturdy jack stands rated for at least 3 tons each.
  • Transmission fluid – Use the OEM‑spec fluid (e.g., Nissan Matic S or an equivalent high‑performance ATF) for the GR6 transmission.
  • Brake cleaner or parts cleaner – To degrease the flywheel, bellhousing, and mating surfaces.
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves – Protect against fluid, debris, and sharp edges.
  • Shop rags, drain pan, and fender covers – Keep your workspace clean and prevent paint damage.

Preparation: Setting the Stage for a Successful Install

Proper preparation reduces the risk of mistakes and physical injury. The GT‑R’s undercarriage is densely packed, so taking the time to clear access areas pays dividends.

Vehicle Positioning and Battery Disconnect

Park the car on a level concrete floor. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and tuck the cable safely aside. This prevents accidental air‑bag deployment or electrical shorts while working near sensors and the transmission control module.

Lifting and Securing

Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car high enough to slide jack stands under the designated lift points (the front subframe and rear‑most crossmember). Lower the car onto the stands and shake it gently to confirm stability. Never rely on the jack alone. Remove both front wheels to improve access to the axles and bellhousing.

Underbody Panel Removal

The GT‑R has several plastic aero panels and heat shields. Remove the large front under‑tray (about 10 bolts and clips). Also remove the small transmission tunnel cover and any brackets that block access to the drive shafts. Label each fastener’s location with painter’s tape to speed reassembly.

Removing the Old Clutch Assembly

This is the most labor‑intensive part of the job. Take your time and work methodically to avoid damaging the transmission case or hydraulic lines.

Step 1: Drain Transmission Fluid

Position a drain pan under the transmission, remove the drain plug on the bottom of the GR6 case, and allow the fluid to fully drain. Reinstall the plug loosely to keep debris out.

Step 2: Disconnect and Remove the Drive Shafts

Unbolt the front drive shafts from the transmission output flanges (six bolts per side). Carefully pull the shafts out of the differential stub‑axles; use a pry bar if needed, but avoid damaging the axle seals. Support the shafts with wire ties or clean rags to keep them out of the way. Repeat for the rear drive shafts if you have a RWD‑converted setup; for a standard AWD car, the rear shafts can stay in place if you only drop the front portion of the transmission.

Step 3: Disconnect Clutch Hydraulic Line and Sensors

Unbolt the clutch master cylinder line from the transmission bellhousing fitting. Plug the end with a rubber cap to minimize fluid loss. Disconnect any electrical connectors for the transmission speed sensors, shift‑fork position sensor, and neutral safety switch. Label each connector with masking tape.

Step 4: Remove the Transmission

Place the transmission jack under the GR6 case with a wooden block to distribute weight. Remove the transmission mount bolts (two large bolts near the rear of the case). Then remove the bellhousing bolts – there are roughly 12 bolts connecting the transmission to the engine block. Use a ratchet with a swivel socket for the top row. Once all bolts are out, carefully slide the transmission rearward about two inches, lower the jack slightly, and then fully slide the transmission out from under the car. Keep the input shaft supported to avoid damaging the pilot bearing.

Step 5: Extract the Old Clutch

With the transmission removed, you have direct access to the clutch. Remove the six pressure plate bolts in a star pattern to avoid warping the plate. Lift off the pressure plate and clutch disc. Inspect the flywheel surface for heat cracks or glazing. Remove the flywheel bolts using a locking tool or an impact gun, then remove the flywheel. Send the flywheel to a machine shop for resurfacing or replace it if it shows significant wear.

Installing the New Clutch

A clean, precise installation of the new clutch ensures proper engagement and longevity.

Step 1: Prepare the Flywheel Surface

Wipe the flywheel friction surface with brake cleaner and a lint‑free cloth. If you reused the original flywheel after resurfacing, blow out any blind bolt holes with compressed air to prevent dirt from interfering with bolt torque.

Step 2: Install the Flywheel

Place the flywheel onto the crankshaft flange. Apply a small drop of threadlocker (blue Loctite) to the flywheel bolts, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern using a torque wrench. Torque specification is typically 85–95 Nm (63–70 lb‑ft); confirm with the clutch manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3: Align the Clutch Disc

Insert the clutch alignment tool through the disc’s splines and into the pilot bearing. The disc must sit flat against the flywheel. Rotate the disc gently until the alignment tool slides in smoothly. Hold the tool steady.

Step 4: Install the Pressure Plate

Place the pressure plate over the disc. Hand‑thread the six pressure plate bolts (usually supplied with the kit). Tighten them in a star pattern to 25 Nm (18 lb‑ft) for the initial pass, then to the final torque specification specified by the kit – typically 35–45 Nm (26–33 lb‑ft). Remove the alignment tool.

Step 5: Replace the Release Bearing and Pilot Bearing

If your kit includes a new release bearing (throw‑out bearing), slide it onto the transmission input shaft sleeve. Apply a thin film of high‑temperature grease to the bearing contact surface. Similarly, if you replaced the pilot bearing, ensure it is fully seated in the crankshaft.

Reinstalling the Transmission

This stage requires patience and careful alignment. Rushing can cause damage to the new clutch disc.

Step 1: Lifting and Aligning the Transmission

Place the GR6 transmission back onto the jack. Raise it until the input shaft is level with the clutch disc splines. Gently slide the transmission forward. Never force it. If it doesn’t slide in easily, spin the output shaft slightly to align the splines. The bellhousing should mate flush with the engine block without gaps.

Step 2: Bolt the Transmission

Hand‑thread all bellhousing bolts, then tighten them in a crisscross pattern to the factory torque: 70 Nm (52 lb‑ft) for the M12 bolts and 45 Nm (33 lb‑ft) for the M10 bolts. Reinstall the transmission mount and torque its bolts to 50 Nm (37 lb‑ft).

Step 3: Reconnect Hydraulics and Drive Shafts

Reconnect the clutch master cylinder line. Bleed the clutch system using a vacuum bleeder or a helper. Reinstall the drive shafts, torquing the flange bolts to 55 Nm (41 lb‑ft). Remount all underbody panels and heat shields.

Step 4: Fill Transmission Fluid

Refill the GR6 with the recommended fluid (typically about 4.5 liters). Use a hand‑pump or funnel with a long hose through the fill plug. Run the engine briefly and check the fluid level again, adding as needed.

Testing, Break‑In, and Common Pitfalls

Proper testing and break‑in are just as important as the installation itself.

Initial Drive and Bleeding Checks

Start the engine with the transmission in neutral. Press the clutch pedal several times to ensure it feels firm and consistent. If the pedal feels spongy, bleed the system again. With the car on stands, shift through all gears with the engine running – each gear should engage cleanly without grinding.

Clutch Break‑In Procedure

For most sintered‑iron or organic street‑performance clutch discs, a break‑in period of 300–500 miles (500–800 km) is recommended. During this period:

  • Avoid aggressive launches or full‑throttle shifts.
  • Use smooth, moderate acceleration.
  • Vary engine speed and avoid prolonged highway cruising at constant rpm.
After break‑in, perform a few gentle hard pulls to seat the disc, then re‑torque the pressure plate bolts if required by the manufacturer.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting

  • Clutch chatter – Often caused by a warped flywheel or disc. Ensure resurfacing was done correctly and that the pressure plate bolts are evenly torqued.
  • Hard pedal or no disengagement – Check the clutch master cylinder for leaks and verify that the release bearing is properly seated. Air in the hydraulic line is a frequent culprit.
  • Transmission whine – May indicate misalignment of the input shaft. If present, re‑check bellhousing parallelism.

For more detailed troubleshooting, consult the GT‑R Life forum or the technical support page of your clutch manufacturer.

Final Thoughts and Recommendations

A 600‑hp GT‑R demands a clutch system that can handle sustained torque without slipping. By carefully following the steps above, you can complete the upgrade yourself and save significant labor costs. Always use new OEM bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate, and never reuse stretch‑type bolts. If you are unsure about any step, consider having an experienced GT‑R mechanic oversee the installation – the GR6 transmission is expensive to repair if damaged.

For additional reference, read the official Nissan GT‑R clutch installation bulletin and the Dodson Motorsport installation guide for torque specs and specific kit instructions. With the right tools, patience, and attention to detail, your upgraded clutch will provide reliable, high‑performance operation for tens of thousands of miles.