Introduction: Why the Skunk2 Racing Exhaust Is a Top Upgrade for Your RSX Type S

If you own an Acura RSX Type S with the K20Z1 or K20A2 engine, you already know that the stock exhaust system leaves a lot of performance and sound potential on the table. The Skunk2 Racing Exhaust system—often referred to as the “megaphone” or “giant can” style—is one of the most popular aftermarket exhausts for the DC5 chassis. For roughly $700 in parts and a dedicated two-hour afternoon, you can transform the driving experience of your RSX. This guide provides a complete, step-by-step walkthrough of the installation process, including the required tools, common pitfalls, torque specs, and tips to ensure a leak-free fit that lasts for thousands of miles.

The Skunk2 Racing Exhaust is designed to reduce back pressure, improve throttle response, and deliver an aggressive, deep exhaust note without being obnoxious at highway speeds. Many enthusiasts pair it with a Skunk2 header or a cold-air intake for maximum gains. However, even as a standalone upgrade, this exhaust is a worthy investment for anyone looking to breathe new life into their RSX Type S.

Parts and Tools Required

Before you jack up the car, take inventory. Nothing derails a two-hour install like a missing socket. Below is a complete list of everything you will need.

Parts Included with the Skunk2 Racing Exhaust Kit

  • Skunk2 Racing cat-back exhaust system (usually ships with mid-pipe, axle-back section, and muffler)
  • Stainless steel gaskets (header-to-mid-pipe and mid-pipe-to-axle-back)
  • Hardware kit: bolts, nuts, and washers for all flanges
  • Rubber hangers (sometimes included, but you may reuse stock ones if they are in good condition)

Tools You Will Need

  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm (deep and shallow sockets recommended)
  • Wrench set: combination wrenches in 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
  • Ratcheting wrench (14mm is especially handy for tight spaces)
  • ¼-inch and ⅜-inch drive ratchets
  • Torque wrench (capable of 25–45 ft-lbs)
  • Jack and two jack stands (or a lift)
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., WD‑40 Specialist or PB Blaster)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Rubber mallet (for stubborn hangers)
  • Flathead screwdriver or pry bar (to help remove rubber exhaust hangers)
  • Wire brush (to clean flange surfaces)
  • Anti-seize compound (optional but recommended for future removal)

Pro tip: Do not skip the penetrating oil. The bolts on a 15- to 20-year-old RSX will be rusted, especially if you live in an area that uses road salt. Spray each bolt 10–15 minutes before you start.

Preparing the Workspace and Vehicle

Preparation is half the battle. Follow these steps to set yourself up for a smooth install.

  1. Park on a level surface. Engage the parking brake. Curb the wheels if possible.
  2. Allow the exhaust to cool completely. If you just drove the car, give it at least 30 minutes. Hot exhaust parts can cause severe burns.
  3. Jack up the rear of the car high enough to work comfortably. Place jack stands under the rear lift points (the pinch welds or subframe). Shake the car to confirm it is stable. Never rely solely on a hydraulic jack.
  4. Spray all exhaust flange bolts with penetrating oil. Focus on the header-to-mid-pipe connection, the mid-pipe-to-axle-back connection, and the two bolts holding the exhaust to the catalytic converter (if you have a factory cat). Let the oil soak while you organize your tools.
  5. Remove any unnecessary items from the trunk or rear cargo area. Some Skunk2 axle-back sections fit tightly against the rear bumper; you may need to access the hangers from inside the bumper cavity.

Removing the Stock Exhaust System

Now the real work begins. The RSX Type S exhaust splits into two main pieces: the mid-pipe (from the catalytic converter back) and the axle-back section (the muffler and tips). On some 2002–2004 models, the exhaust is one piece from the cat to the muffler, but the Skunk2 kit is designed to replace everything behind the header collectors.

Step 1: Disconnect the Exhaust from the Header

Locate the two 14mm bolts where the stock exhaust connects to the header (or to the catalytic converter if you still have one). Apply more penetrating oil if needed. Using a 14mm socket and ratchet, loosen and remove these bolts. They may be tight; you can use a breaker bar if necessary. Set the bolts aside—you will not reuse them because the Skunk2 kit comes with new hardware.

Step 2: Remove the Mid-Pipe Support Brackets

There is usually a bracket near the centre of the car that holds the mid-pipe to the transmission crossmember. This bolt is 12mm or 14mm. Remove it.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Axle-Back Bolts

At the rear of the mid-pipe, just ahead of the rear axle, you’ll find another flange with two 14mm bolts. Loosen and remove them. If the flange is rusted, give it a few hammer taps with a rubber mallet to break the seal.

Step 4: Detach the Rubber Hangers

The stock exhaust is supported by four rubber hangers. Use a flathead screwdriver or a pry bar to push the hanger eyelets off the metal mounting tabs. Start at the front and work your way back. If the rubber is old and brittle, a spray of silicone lubricant can help. Once all hangers are free, carefully lower the stock exhaust from the car. It is heavy—do not let it drop on your hand or foot.

Tip: If the exhaust seems stuck, double-check that you removed all bolts and brackets. Sometimes rust can “glue” the flanges together; a few light taps with a hammer around the flange will break the corrosion bond.

Step 5: Clean the Flange Surfaces

With the old exhaust out, inspect the header outlet flange (or cat flange). Use a wire brush to remove rust, debris, and old gasket material. A clean surface is critical for a proper seal with the new Skunk2 gasket. Also clean the mid-pipe flange area if you are reusing anything.

Installing the Skunk2 Racing Exhaust

Take your time during installation. Rushing can lead to misalignment, rattles, or exhaust leaks.

Step 1: Fit the Mid-Pipe First

Place the new Skunk2 mid-pipe (the larger diameter section) onto the header flange. Use the supplied gasket and new bolts. Do not tighten fully yet. Just thread the bolts in snugly by hand—this allows the system to move as you align everything.

Step 2: Attach the Axle-Back Section

Slip the axle-back section into the rubber hangers. The Skunk2 muffler usually has three mounting points: two on the side and one at the tip support. Install the gasket between the mid-pipe and axle-back flange, then thread the two bolts hand-tight. Push the rubber hangers onto the metal tabs. You may need a small amount of soapy water to ease the rubber over the tabs.

Step 3: Align the Tips

Check how the exhaust tips sit against the rear bumper cutout. You can adjust the angle slightly by loosening the bolts and shifting the muffler. The Skunk2 tip should be centered in the bumper opening. Once you are happy, tighten all flange bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specification (usually 32–38 ft-lbs for 14mm bolts; refer to the included instructions). Use a torque wrench for this step.

Step 4: Secure the Hangers and Brackets

Push the rubber hangers fully onto the tabs. Install any support bracket that came with the Skunk2 kit (some kits include a bracket that mounts to the chassis for additional support). Tighten all bolts to spec.

Torque Specifications and Final Check

Proper torque is essential to prevent exhaust leaks and stripped threads. While Skunk2 provides torque values, here are general specs for an RSX Type S exhaust system:

  • Header-to-mid-pipe bolts: 35 ft-lbs
  • Mid-pipe-to-axle-back bolts: 32 ft-lbs
  • Hanger bracket bolts: 18 ft-lbs

After torquing, go back and re-check each bolt in sequence. Perform a visual inspection to ensure the exhaust does not touch any part of the chassis, underbody heat shields, or suspension components. If you hear a metallic rattle during the test drive, you will need to adjust the clearance.

Test Drive and Sound Evaluation

Start the engine and listen for exhaust leaks at the flange connections. A small leak will produce a ticking or hissing sound that gets louder as the engine warms up. If you suspect a leak, let the engine cool, then tighten the bolts a bit more—but be careful not to strip the threads. A smoke test or using a shop vacuum to pressurize the system can help pinpoint leaks.

Take the car for a 10-minute drive, varying engine speed and load. The Skunk2 Racing Exhaust is known for its deep, aggressive tone under acceleration and a mild drone at highway speeds. If the drone is excessive, consider adding a resonator from K‑Series Parts or a J-pipe to cancel frequencies. Many RSX owners report a 5–8 horsepower increase at the wheels and improved throttle response, especially when paired with a reflash or Hondata ECU tune.

Performance Benefits of the Skunk2 Racing Exhaust

Beyond the improved sound, this exhaust system offers tangible performance gains. The mandrel-bent 3-inch piping (some variants are 2.75 inches) significantly reduces exhaust gas restriction compared to the stock 2.25-inch system. This allows the K20 engine to breathe more freely at high RPM, resulting in better top-end power. The system also saves about 10–15 pounds compared to the stock exhaust, which reduces unsprung and rotating mass slightly.

If you are considering a header upgrade, the Skunk2 Racing Exhaust is often used with the Skunk2 Alpha header for a complete free-flowing exhaust path. However, even with a stock header, the cat-back alone will sharpen engine response.

Maintenance and Long-Term Care

Stainless steel exhausts like the Skunk2 are resistant to corrosion, but they still need basic maintenance. After a winter driving season or after driving on salted roads, spray the underside of the exhaust with a hose to remove salt residue. Check the rubber hangers annually for cracking; replace them if they become brittle. The flange bolts should be inspected and re-torqued after the first 500 miles, as gaskets compress slightly.

If you ever need to remove the Skunk2 exhaust (for engine work or to upgrade to a different system), apply anti-seize to the flange bolts during reassembly. This will make future removal much easier.

Troubleshooting Common Installation Issues

  • Exhaust hits the rear sway bar: Loosen the mid-pipe bolts and rotate the pipe slightly to gain clearance. On some RSX models, you may need to install spacer washers on the hanger brackets.
  • Tips stick out too far or not far enough: Adjust the axle-back section before fully tightening the flange. If the tips still don’t line up, you can slot the hanger holes slightly with a round file.
  • Drone at 2,500–3,000 RPM: This is common with straight-through muffler designs. Adding a Helmholtz resonator or a small high-flow catalytic converter can reduce drone without sacrificing flow.
  • Bolts snap during removal: If a bolt breaks off in the header or cat flange, drill out the broken stud and use a bolt extractor. Applying heat with a propane torch before removal can help prevent breakage.

Conclusion

Installing a Skunk2 Racing Exhaust on your Acura RSX Type S is one of the most rewarding weekend projects you can undertake. For roughly $700 and a solid two hours of work, you get a system that sounds incredible, reduces weight, and unlocks more power from the venerable K20 engine. The installation is straightforward if you follow the steps carefully and prepare with the right tools. Remember to torque all bolts to spec, double-check clearance, and enjoy the new soundtrack every time you drive. For further reading, check out the ClubRSX forum thread where hundreds of owners share their experiences and tips.