Table of Contents
Overview of the Clayton Speed Camshaft Installation
A camshaft upgrade is one of the most effective ways to unlock significant horsepower and torque from your engine. The Clayton Speed Camshaft is engineered to deliver up to a 70 horsepower gain by optimizing valve timing, lift, and duration for higher airflow and combustion efficiency. This complete installation guide provides the detailed, step-by-step procedures required to achieve those gains reliably. Whether you are a seasoned engine builder or a well-prepared enthusiast, following these instructions carefully will ensure a successful installation and long-lasting performance.
Understanding the Clayton Speed Camshaft
Before diving into the installation, it is essential to understand what makes the Clayton Speed Camshaft different from a stock cam. The camshaft controls the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves. A performance camshaft like the Clayton Speed Camshaft increases valve lift and extends the duration that valves remain open. This allows more air and fuel to enter the cylinders and exhaust gases to exit more efficiently, resulting in a 70 horsepower increase in many applications.
The Clayton Speed Camshaft is precision-ground from high-strength billet steel and features hardened lobes for durability. It is designed to work with both pushrod and overhead cam engines with appropriate modifications. Many builders also pair it with upgraded valve springs, retainers, and a matched ECU tune to fully realize the power potential.
Tools and Materials Required
Having the correct tools and replacement parts on hand before starting will save time and prevent frustration. Below is a comprehensive list. Some items may vary based on your specific engine platform.
- Clayton Speed Camshaft – ensure it matches your engine’s bore and stroke specifications
- Socket set (metric and SAE) including extensions and universal joints
- Torque wrench – a click-type or beam-type, accurate to within 2 ft-lb increments
- Camshaft installation tool or a soft-faced mallet (for gentle tapping)
- Engine assembly lubricant and SAE 30 or 5W-20 engine oil (for break-in)
- Gasket set – includes intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, timing cover gasket, and camshaft retainer plate gasket
- Timing chain or belt – replace if mileage exceeds 60,000 miles or if the engine has been modified
- Camshaft bearing installer and remover (if bearing replacement is necessary)
- Dial indicator and magnetic base – for degreeing the camshaft (recommended for accuracy)
- Safety goggles and mechanic’s gloves
- Shop rags and brake cleaner – for cleaning mating surfaces
- Threadlocker (medium strength) – for camshaft retaining bolts
Optional but beneficial: a crankshaft turner or breaker bar to rotate the engine during alignment, and a video borescope to inspect the cylinder walls before reassembly.
Safety Precautions and Workspace Preparation
Engine modification work involves heavy components, hot surfaces, and potential fuel or oil spills. Follow these safety measures:
- Work in a well-ventilated area with adequate lighting. If indoors, use an exhaust fan to remove fumes.
- Disconnect the battery (negative terminal first) to prevent accidental starter engagement or short circuits.
- Allow the engine to cool completely – a hot engine can cause burns and uneven torque readings.
- Use jack stands or a sturdy lift; never rely solely on a floor jack.
- Wear safety goggles and gloves at all times. Oil and debris can cause eye injury.
- Keep a fire extinguisher (Class B) nearby when working with fuel or solvent-based cleaners.
Prepare the engine by draining the coolant and oil if you will be replacing the valve covers, timing cover, or intake manifold. A clean, organized workspace with labeled containers for small parts will streamline reassembly.
Step-by-Step Removal of the Old Camshaft
Proper removal of the existing camshaft is critical to avoid damage to the engine block and new components.
1. Engine Preparation
- Disconnect the battery.
- Remove the air intake duct, throttle body, and any sensors attached to the intake manifold.
- Drain the engine coolant and oil if necessary.
- Remove the radiator fan and shroud for better access to the front of the engine.
2. Accessing the Camshaft
- Unbolt the valve covers and intake manifold. Use a new gasket for each during reassembly.
- Remove the spark plugs to make rotating the engine easier by hand.
- Take off the timing cover. On overhead cam engines, you may need to remove the serpentine belt and the crankshaft harmonic balancer first.
3. Timing System Removal
- Rotate the crankshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke for cylinder #1. Verify using the timing marks on the crankshaft damper and the camshaft gear.
- Loosen the timing chain tensioner or belt tensioner and remove the timing chain/belt. Mark the rotational direction on the belt if it will be reused (though replacement is recommended).
- On pushrod engines, remove the camshaft thrust plate or retaining bolts.
- On overhead cam engines, remove the camshaft sprocket bolts (the crankshaft may need to be locked to prevent rotation).
4. Removing the Old Camshaft
- Carefully slide the camshaft out through the front of the engine block. Support the lobes to avoid scoring the bearing surfaces.
- If the camshaft is stuck, do not force it. Use a soft-faced mallet or a camshaft removal tool with gentle taps. Inspect bearings for wear or galling.
- Clean the camshaft bore with a lint-free cloth and apply a light coat of assembly lube to the bearing journals.
Installing the Clayton Speed Camshaft
With the old camshaft removed and the engine block thoroughly cleaned, the new Clayton Speed Camshaft can be installed. Precision is vital at this stage.
1. Pre-Installation Preparation
- Compare the new camshaft with the old one to verify lift, duration, and base circle diameter. Measure with a caliper or micrometer.
- Apply moly-based assembly lubricant to the camshaft lobes and distributor drive gear (if equipped).
- Liberally oil the camshaft bearing journals with engine assembly lube or SAE 30 oil.
2. Inserting the Camshaft
- Carefully slide the Clayton Speed Camshaft into the engine block from the front. Rotate it slowly as you insert to avoid binding.
- Align the camshaft’s timing mark with the mark on the engine block or crankshaft gear. Use a timing kit or degree wheel if required.
- For pushrod engines: install the camshaft thrust plate and tighten bolts to manufacturer torque specification (typically 15–20 ft-lb).
- For overhead cam engines: install the camshaft sprocket and align the dowel pin. Do not torque the sprocket bolts fully until the timing chain/belt is installed and tensioned.
3. Reinstalling the Timing System
- Install the timing chain or belt, ensuring the marks on both the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets align perfectly. Rotate the engine two full revolutions by hand and recheck alignment.
- Adjust the timing tensioner to the specified setting. On hydraulic tensioners, follow the manufacturer’s bleed procedure.
- Torque all camshaft sprocket bolts to the specified value (often 50–70 ft-lb for front-mounted sprockets). Use threadlocker on each bolt.
4. Degreeing the Camshaft (Recommended)
To verify that the camshaft is installed at the correct lobe center angle, use a degree wheel and dial indicator. This ensures the 70 horsepower gain is realized and prevents piston-to-valve interference. Mount the dial indicator on the intake valve follower or lifter and measure the opening and closing points. Adjust the camshaft position using offset cam keys or adjustable cam gears if needed. A degree tolerance of ±1 degree at the intake lobe center is typical for performance builds.
Reassembling the Engine
After the camshaft and timing system are secured, reassembly must be done methodically using new gaskets and seals.
1. Install the Timing Cover and Gaskets
- Clean the sealing surface of the block and timing cover. Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant where the block meets the oil pan.
- Install the new timing cover gasket and torque the bolts in a crisscross pattern to 8–12 ft-lb (check platform specs).
- Reinstall the crankshaft harmonic balancer if removed, using the correct bolt and tightening it to 140–180 ft-lb for many V8 engines.
2. Reinstall the Intake Manifold and Valve Covers
- Place new intake manifold gaskets and torque the manifold to the manufacturer’s sequence (typically 20–30 ft-lb in three stages).
- Install new valve cover gaskets and tighten evenly. Over-tightening can distort the covers.
- Reconnect any sensors, vacuum lines, and fuel injectors (if removed).
3. Finalize Externals
- Refill the engine with the recommended oil and filter. For break-in, use a non-synthetic oil containing high levels of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) to protect the flat-tappet cam if applicable. Roller cams are less sensitive but still benefit from proper oil.
- Refill coolant. Use a burp funnel to remove air pockets.
- Reconnect the battery and all electrical connectors. Double-check the throttle linkage and kickdown cables (automatic transmission).
ECU Tuning and Compatibility Considerations
The Clayton Speed Camshaft’s aggressive profile may require recalibration of the engine’s air-fuel ratio and ignition timing. A standalone ECU or a reflash of the factory ECU is often necessary to fully exploit the 70 horsepower gain. Without a proper tune, the engine may run lean, cause misfires, or trigger a check-engine light. Consider the following:
- Install larger fuel injectors if the camshaft increases airflow beyond the OEM fuel system’s capacity.
- Adjust the idle speed (if it becomes unstable) by modifying the idle air control or throttle stop.
- Many performance shops offer remote dyno tuning. Schedule a session after engine break-in.
For more technical data on camshaft degreeing and tuning, consult Clayton Racing Products official site for specific lobe profiles, or visit Hot Rod’s engine building basics guide.
Break-In Procedure for a New Camshaft
Proper break-in is the most critical phase after installation. Flat-tappet camshafts—if used—require the following steps to prevent lobe wear and premature failure. Roller camshafts need break-in but with less aggressive oil requirements.
- Prime the oil system by cranking the engine with the ignition disabled (remove the fuel pump fuse) until oil pressure registers on the gauge.
- Start the engine and immediately raise the idle to 2000–3000 RPM. Do not let it idle below 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes.
- Vary the engine speed between 2000 and 3000 RPM during the break-in period. Avoid prolonged steady-state running.
- Monitor oil pressure, coolant temperature, and listen for any ticking or knocking noises. If the lifter noise persists, stop the engine and re-check valve lash.
- After 20 minutes of operation, shut the engine down. Let it cool completely, then retorque the cylinder head bolts (if gasket manufacturer requires) and readjust valve lash.
- Change the oil and filter after the first 50–100 miles (heat cycles). Use a high-quality synthetic or conventional oil with ZDDP additive.
Testing and Verifying the 70 Horsepower Gain
To confirm the performance improvement, a dyno test is the gold standard. Before arriving at the dyno, perform the following checks:
- Inspect for oil leaks at the camshaft seals, timing cover, and valve covers.
- Verify that the timing marks remain aligned after the break-in. Recheck the camshaft degree if necessary.
- Confirm the ignition timing is set to the recommended base value (typically 10–15 degrees BTDC for many engines).
A baseline dynamometer run (before the cam swap) and a post-installation run will graphically show the horsepower and torque curves. The Clayton Speed Camshaft is designed to shift the power band higher in the RPM range, so you should see peak horsepower around 5500–6500 RPM depending on the grinder specifications. If the gains are below expectations, investigate intake and exhaust restrictions, or consider a custom ECU tune. Additional resources can be found at Engine Builder Magazine and Speedway Motors’ camshaft tech articles.
Common Installation Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them
- Incorrect lobe orientation – Some performance camshafts are ground with different centerlines for intake and exhaust. Always install with the timing marks facing the correct direction (usually toward the front of the engine).
- Overtightening camshaft bolts – Use a torque wrench; stripped threads or cracked bearing journals can ruin the block.
- Failing to replace lifters – When installing a new camshaft, always replace the lifters (flat tappet or roller followers). Used lifters wear to the old cam profile and will cause premature wear on the new cam.
- Ignoring piston-to-valve clearance – High-lift camshafts may require fly-cutting the pistons or installing shorter rods. Check clearance with clay or a dial indicator.
- Neglecting to degree the cam – Even high-quality camshafts can have production tolerances. Degreeing ensures the power goal is met and prevents damage.
Conclusion
Installing a Clayton Speed Camshaft is a rewarding project that can transform your engine’s performance with a proven 70 horsepower increase. The key to success lies in thorough preparation, precise mechanical work, and attention to break-in procedures. Every step—from removing the old camshaft to degreeing the new one and tuning the ECU—matters. By following this complete installation guide, you will achieve maximum power, reliability, and longevity from your Clayton Speed Camshaft. For further support, consult the manufacturer’s documentation and trusted engine-building communities.