The Dodge Stealth: A Platform with Serious Potential

The Dodge Stealth, a rebadged Mitsubishi 3000GT produced from 1990 to 1996, remains a cult classic among enthusiasts. Its 3.0-liter V6 engine (the 6G72) and advanced-for-its-time features—like active aerodynamics and all-wheel drive—give it a unique place in 1990s sports car history. While the Stealth came in naturally aspirated (NA) and twin-turbo (TT) variants, the NA models (base, ES) offer a relatively affordable entry point for a turbo upgrade. Even owners of the turbo models often seek to improve upon the factory setup, which can be limited by restrictive parts and aging components. This cost breakdown focuses on adding a forced-induction system to a non-turbo Stealth, or significantly upgrading a factory turbo car, with a budget target of roughly $2,500. That figure is a realistic starting point, but understanding where each dollar goes is critical to avoiding costly mistakes.

Turbocharger Fundamentals

A turbocharger uses exhaust gas flow to spin a turbine wheel, which compresses incoming air and forces it into the engine. More air means more fuel can be burned, producing a substantial power increase—often 50–100% over a naturally aspirated engine when done right. However, adding a turbo isn't just about bolting on a blower. It requires a complete system: manifold, downpipe, intercooler, oil and coolant lines, wastegate, blow-off valve, and most importantly, engine management tuning. The Dodge Stealth’s 6G72 engine is robust, but the fuel system, ignition, and ECU are not prepared for boost without modifications. Skimping on any component can lead to detonation, high exhaust gas temperatures, or engine failure. The $2,500 budget must cover not just the shiny parts, but the engineering required to make them work safely.

Your Turbocharger Options: Kit vs. Custom

Pre-Engineered Turbo Kits

Several companies offer bolt-on turbo kits for the Dodge Stealth (and its cousin, the Mitsubishi 3000GT). These typically include a cast iron or tubular manifold, a turbocharger (often a T3/T4 hybrid or modern GT-style unit), wastegate, downpipe, and all necessary gaskets and hardware. Some kits even include an intercooler and piping. For a first-time builder, a kit reduces guesswork and fitment issues. Expect to pay between $1,200 and $1,800 for a complete kit from reputable sources like 3SX Performance or used marketplaces such as 3SI.org. Be wary of ultra-cheap eBay kits that often have poor build quality, incorrect flanges, and unreliable wastegates—they will cost you more in the long run.

Custom Pieced-Together System

For the resourceful DIYer, sourcing individual components can save money and allow for a more tailored setup. You might buy a used OEM Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 twin-turbo setup (manifolds, turbos, intercooler) for under $500, then add a modern single-turbo upgrade using a custom crossover pipe. This approach requires welding, fabrication skills, and research of forum build threads. While the total spend on parts might be lower (around $800–$1,000), the time and potential hidden costs (blown gaskets, missing hardware, custom tuning) can balloon the budget. For the $2,500 target, a well-sourced used kit is often the sweet spot.

Detailed Cost Breakdown for a $2,500 Turbo Upgrade

Below is a realistic breakdown that accounts for both a complete budget build and a more comprehensive upgrade path. The numbers assume you are starting with a healthy, naturally aspirated 3.0L V6 engine or are replacing a tired factory twin-turbo system.

  • Turbocharger Kit (or turbo + manifold + downpipe) – $1,000–$1,400
  • Intercooler and Piping – $200–$400 (if not included in kit)
  • Fuel System Upgrades (injectors, pump, lines) – $250–$450
  • Engine Management / Tuning – $300–$600
  • Wastegate, Blow-Off Valve, Oil/Coolant Lines – $150–$300
  • Gaskets, Bolts, Fluids, Filters – $50–$100
  • Labor (if not DIY) – $400–$800
  • Contingency for leaks, broken studs, welds – $100–$200

1. Turbocharger Kit and Manifold ($1,000–$1,400)

This is the heart of the build. For a single-turbo setup on the Stealth, a common choice is a T3/T4 hybrid with a .48 or .63 A/R turbine housing. A quality kit will include a properly flanged manifold, a downpipe that mates to the stock exhaust, and a compatible turbocharger from a reputable brand like Garrett, BorgWarner, or Precision. Avoid unknown-brand "chinese" turbos for a daily driver; they lack durability and consistency. The used market can be a goldmine—many 3S owners upgrade to larger turbos and sell their well-maintained kits for around $800–$1,200. Factor in $100 for a rebuild kit if buying used.

2. Intercooler and Piping ($200–$400)

Compressed air gets hot; an intercooler cools it before entering the engine, increasing density and reducing detonation risk. A front-mount intercooler (FMIC) is recommended. Budget $150–$250 for a core (e.g., 24"x12"x3") and $50–$150 for silicone couplers and aluminum pipes. Many DIYers fabricate their own piping using mandrel bends from an automotive store. If your turbo kit does not include an intercooler, this is a non-negotiable addition.

3. Fuel System Upgrades ($250–$450)

A naturally aspirated Stealth's fuel system cannot supply enough fuel under boost. You'll need larger fuel injectors (at least 440cc/min; many use 550cc or even 670cc for more headroom), a higher-flow fuel pump (e.g., Walbro 255 lph), and possibly an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Used injectors from a Mitsubishi Eclipse turbo or from a forum member can cost $100–$200 for a set; a new pump is around $100. Don’t forget a fuel pressure gauge to confirm correct pressure.

4. Engine Management and Tuning ($300–$600)

This is the most critical part for reliability. The stock ECU does not have a map for boost and will run dangerously lean. Options range from a piggyback chip (e.g., a "VR-4 flash" on a 3SX ECU) to a standalone system like a Megasquirt, AEM, or Haltech. A used piggyback like a V-Manage or a reflash of your stock ECU by a tuner can run $300–$400. A basic dyno tune (if you have a piggyback) adds $200–$300 more. For a $2,500 budget, allocate at least $400 for tuning: either a mail-order base map plus local dyno, or a reputable e-tuning service. Without proper tuning, your investment is at risk.

5. Wastegate, Blow-Off Valve, and Plumbing ($150–$300)

A wastegate controls boost pressure; an internal gate is often included with smaller turbos, but external gates are more accurate and allow better boost control. Budget $50–$150 for a quality boost controller (manual or electronic). A blow-off valve (BOV) recirculates or vents excess pressure when the throttle closes, preventing compressor surge. Used units from Tial, HKS, or Synapse can be found for $80–$150. Additionally, you need oil feed and drain lines, plus coolant lines if using a water-cooled turbo. Factor in $30–$60 for braided lines and fittings.

6. Gaskets, Bolts, and Consumables ($50–$100)

You'll need exhaust manifold gaskets, turbo gaskets, and possibly new downpipe bolts. Use high-quality copper or multi-layer steel gaskets. Also include a new oil filter, fresh coolant, and high-quality engine oil. Don't reuse crush washers on oil lines. This small line item can prevent major leaks.

7. Labor ($400–$800) – But DIY to Save

If you are not a seasoned mechanic, installing a turbo kit on a Stealth is a 20–30 hour job. Shop rates are $75–$125/hour, so professional installation can easily eat half your budget. Many enthusiasts tackle this themselves with a lift or jack stands, a good set of tools, and the factory service manual. For the $2,500 goal, plan to do the installation yourself. If you must hire labor, reduce the cost elsewhere, perhaps by using a smaller turbo or a used kit.

8. Contingency Fund ($100–$200)

On an older car (25–35 years old), you will likely encounter broken exhaust studs, stripped threads, or corroded coolant lines. A small contingency keeps the project moving without derailment. If you don’t need it, treat yourself to a boost gauge or a healthy tune.

Total Estimated Range

With all items accounted for, a DIY budget build—using some used parts, a well-selected kit, and a piggyback tune—can hit $2,300 to $2,700. If you go with a complete new kit and professional labor, the cost easily surpasses $3,500. The $2,500 target is achievable by:

  • Buying a used turbo kit from a reputable seller (e.g., on 3SI’s Parts for Sale).
  • Installing everything yourself with the help of online guides like Stealth 316.
  • Using a stock 3000GT VR-4 intercooler (found for $100–$150) and fabricating piping.
  • Skipping dyno tuning in favor of a mail-order base map, but verify with a wideband air-fuel gauge.

Budgeting for Reliability: What Not to Skip

To keep costs low, some temptations arise—like using a cheap boost controller, reusing old vacuum lines, or welding cracks yourself. Resist. A few critical reliability investments will save money long-term:

  • Wideband oxygen sensor and gauge ($150–$250): Essential for monitoring air-fuel ratio during tuning and daily driving.
  • Fuel injector cleaning and testing ($30–$80): Used injectors should be professionally flow-matched.
  • Quality wastegate and BOV: A failed wastegate can spike boost and destroy the engine; a cheap BOV can cause compressor surge.

If your budget is tight after purchasing the core turbo kit, prioritize a wideband gauge and proper tuning over cosmetic parts. A lean condition under boost will ruin your engine much faster than an intercooler pipe fell off.

Power Expectations vs. Reality

With a proper $2,500 turbo upgrade on a stock naturally aspirated 6G72 (9.0:1 compression, iron block), you can expect around 280–340 wheel horsepower on a safe tune. That’s a dramatic improvement over the stock 160–180 hp at the wheels. The factory twin-turbo Stealth RT/TT made about 270 hp at the crank; a well-sorted budget single-turbo build can match or exceed that. However, do not expect 500 hp on this budget—that requires forged internals, larger turbos, standalone ECU, and a budget closer to $5,000–$8,000. Stay realistic and focus on building a reliable, fun street car.

Conclusion: Making $2,500 Work for Your Stealth Turbo Project

Upgrading your Dodge Stealth with a turbocharger for $2,500 is absolutely possible if you are willing to do the work yourself, hunt for quality used parts, and invest in proper tuning. The key is to allocate funds proportionally: resist overspending on a shiny new turbo if you still need a fuel pump and a tune. Use community resources like 3000GT/Stealth forums to find parts and advice. With careful planning and a respect for the mechanical limits, your Stealth can be transformed into a true driver’s car that rewards every shift. Stick to the budget, but never compromise on safety or engine management—that’s the only way to enjoy boost without the bang. Now get your hands dirty and build something memorable.