Installing a performance camshaft is one of the most effective ways to unlock meaningful horsepower in a pushrod V8 or modern overhead-valve engine. The Trick Flow Stage 2 camshaft is a popular choice for street and strip enthusiasts seeking a balance of daily-driveability and serious power gains in the 35–50 hp range. This guide provides a thorough, step-by-step walkthrough covering everything from workspace preparation to final tuning considerations. Whether you’re working on a Chevy LS, Ford small-block, or any engine that accepts a Trick Flow Stage 2 cam, these instructions will help you complete the job safely and correctly.

Understanding the Trick Flow Stage 2 Camshaft

The Trick Flow Stage 2 cam is engineered for engines with aftermarket cylinder heads, a moderate stall converter (if automatic), and headers. It typically features roughly 230–240 degrees of duration at 0.050-inch lift and a lobe separation angle around 112–114 degrees. This profile delivers a strong mid‑range punch without sacrificing all low-end torque. Expected gains are 35–50 horsepower on a properly tuned engine, but achieving those numbers requires careful installation and supporting modifications.

Before you begin, verify your engine’s compatibility. The Trick Flow Stage 2 cam fits many small-block Ford and Chevy applications, but you must confirm cam journal size, lift clearance with pistons, and valve spring open pressure. Visit the Trick Flow website for exact specifications. If your valve springs are stock, you’ll need to upgrade to a dual spring set capable of handling the added lift (0.550–0.600 inches).

Tools and Materials: A Complete List

Having the right tools on hand prevents frustration and engine damage. Gather the following before starting:

Specialty Tools

  • Camshaft installation tool (lobe‑protecting sleeve or bolt‑on handle)
  • Torque wrench (½‑inch drive for main bolts, ⅜‑inch for smaller fasteners)
  • Degree wheel and dial indicator (to verify cam timing)
  • Lifter holding tool (if removing lifters)
  • Compressed air and shop rags for cleaning

Consumables

  • Engine oil (break‑in oil with high zinc content recommended)
  • Camshaft assembly lube or moly‑based grease
  • Gasket set (includes timing cover, valve cover, and intake manifold gaskets)
  • Thread locker (medium strength for cam bolts)
  • New timing set (chain, gears, tensioner) – always replace with a performance cam

Standard Hand Tools

  • Socket set (metric and SAE as required)
  • Wrenches (combination, ratcheting)
  • Pry bar (gentle for pulleys)
  • Gasket scraper
  • Feeler gauges (for checking piston‑to‑valve clearance)

Safety and Preparatory Steps

Working on an engine that has recently been running carries risks. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first. If the engine is cold, that’s fine; if it was run recently, allow it to cool completely to avoid burns from exhaust manifolds or coolant. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter – old oil can contain metal particles that contaminate the new cam. It’s also wise to flush the cooling system if the coolant is due for replacement.

For better access, remove the radiator (or at least the fan shroud and electric fan), alternator, and power steering pump if necessary. Label each harness connection and hose with tape and marker. Take photos before disassembly – this single step can save hours during reassembly.

Prepare a clean workbench or covered table where you can lay out parts and keep fasteners organized. Use a magnetic tray to avoid losing bolts inside the engine bay.

Removing the Old Camshaft

Phase 1: Access

Start by removing the intake manifold, valve covers, and timing cover. On many engines this also means taking off the water pump, harmonic balancer, and any front accessories. Follow the factory service manual for your specific engine. For LS engines, the cam is accessed from the front after removing the timing cover; for older small-block Fords, you may also need to remove the distributor.

Phase 2: Timing Chain and Lifters

Rotate the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke for cylinder #1. Mark the timing chain relationship between the cam and crank gears with a paint marker. Remove the timing chain tensioner and then the chain and gears. Set them aside – do not reuse with a new cam.

Remove the lifters. Flat‑tappet lifters must come out in order and should be replaced with new lifters matched to the Stage 2 cam. Roller lifters can often be reused but inspect them for scoring. Use a magnet or a specialized lifter removal tool. Keep lifters in a labeled rack if reusing them.

Phase 3: Camshaft Extraction

Unbolt the camshaft retaining plate (if equipped) or the cam bolts on engines with a single mounting bolt. Carefully slide the old cam out through the front of the engine. It may require gentle wiggling and rotation. Do not force it – if it catches, check for interference from the lifters or a dislodged timing chain guide. Once removed, clean the cam bore and check the bearing journals for wear.

Installing the Trick Flow Stage 2 Camshaft

Preparation and Lubrication

Before installation, apply a generous coat of camshaft assembly lube to each bearing journal (not the bearing shells themselves) and to every lobe. Also apply a thin layer of engine oil to the lifter bores and install the new lifters. Trick Flow recommends using a break‑in oil additive that contains ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) to protect flat‑tappet cams during the first 20 minutes of operation.

Insertion

Insert the new cam through the front opening. Use a cam installation tool to protect the lobes and bearings. As you slide it in, rotate the cam slowly to align the bearings. When it reaches the rear, bolt the retaining plate or cam bolt in place. Torque to the manufacturer’s specification – often 20–25 ft‑lb for a single bolt, or 14–18 ft‑lb for a three‑bolt plate.

Verifying Cam Timing

Install the new timing set. Align the crank key to the 12 o’clock position (TDC) and the cam dot to the appropriate mark on the cam sprocket (usually 12 o’clock as well, but check your set’s instructions). Install the chain and tensioner. Rotate the engine two full turns by hand to verify no binding. Use a degree wheel and dial indicator to check that the cam is installed at the correct centerline. The Trick Flow Stage 2 is typically ground on a 112–114 LSA, but you should confirm the intake centerline matches the card. Adjustable timing sets allow you to advance or retard the cam if needed.

Critical check: With the crank and cam locked at TDC, rotate the engine 90 degrees past TDC and check piston‑to‑valve clearance using clay or a dial indicator on the valve stem. If clearance is less than 0.080 inch for intake and 0.100 inch for exhaust, you may need to fly‑cut the pistons or choose a different cam.

Reinstalling Timing Components and Accessories

Timing Cover and Front Seals

Install a new timing cover gasket and the cover itself. Ensure the front seal is properly seated. If your engine uses a harmonic balancer, apply seal lubricant to the balancer bore and install it with the correct bolt – never hammer the balancer. Torque the balancer bolt to spec (typically 200–250 ft‑lb on LS engines, less on small‑block Fords).

Lifter Preload (Hydraulic Roller Only)

If using a hydraulic roller cam, adjust lifter preload. Most Trick Flow stage 2 cams require 0.040–0.060 inch preload from zero lash. Tighten rocker arms to factory spec, then turn the pushrod ¼ to ⅓ turn past zero lash. For solid roller cams, set hot lash according to the cam card (often 0.020–0.024 inch).

Intake Manifold and Valve Covers

Install new intake manifold gaskets. Use a thin bead of RTV at the front and rear corners (where the manifold meets the block deck). Torque in sequence. Install valve covers with new gaskets. Reattach all previously removed accessories: alternator, power steering, water pump, fan shroud, and radiator. Refill coolant.

First Start and Break‑In Procedure

The break‑in period for a new camshaft is the most critical phase. For flat‑tappet cams (still common in older engines), you must follow a strict 20‑minute initial startup at 2000–2500 rpm. For hydraulic roller cams, a gentler break‑in is acceptable, but still vary the rpm within the first hour.

  • Fill the engine with break‑in oil and a new oil filter. Do not use synthetic oil initially.
  • Prime the oil system by cranking the engine with the ignition disabled until oil pressure registers on the gauge (or use a priming tool).
  • Start the engine and immediately raise the rpm to 2000. Hold it steady for the first 30 seconds, then vary between 2000 and 2500 for 20 minutes.
  • Watch for leaks, unusual noises, and overheating. If lifters clatter, shut down and re‑check preload.
  • After 20 minutes, let the engine idle and check for smooth operation. Change the oil and filter after the first hour of run time, then again at 500 miles.

For more detailed break‑in instructions, refer to Summit Racing’s cam break‑in guide.

Tuning for Maximum Gains

The Trick Flow Stage 2 cam requires a recalibrated fuel and spark timing curve. If your engine has aftermarket EFI, get a custom tune from a reputable shop. For carbureted setups, you may need to increase the primary jet size by 2–4 steps and adjust the idle mixture screws. Expect a lumpy idle at 800–900 rpm. If drivability is too rough, consider a vacuum‑advance distributor with adjustable curve.

Upgraded valve springs (recommended lift over 0.550) must be installed to handle the cam’s lobe profile. Trick Flow recommends PN TFS‑15000‑2 or equivalent. You’ll also want a single‑plane intake manifold and long‑tube headers to fully realize the 35–50 hp gains. Without these supporting mods, you may only see 20–25 hp.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Incorrect cam timing: Always degree the cam – even new high‑end cams can be off by a few degrees. A one‑tooth error can destroy pistons.
  • Using old timing chain: A stretched chain will cause retarded cam timing and reduced power.
  • Forgetting to block lifter gallery: When installing a timing set, plug the oil passage to the distributor gear on some engines to prevent oil spray.
  • Skipping lifter preload check: Zero preload yields noisy lifters and potential valvetrain damage.
  • Ignoring valve spring pressure: Stock springs will coil‑bind at the Trick Flow Stage 2 lift, leading to catastrophic failure.

Performance Results: What to Expect

A properly installed Trick Flow Stage 2 cam, paired with headers, a good intake, and a tune, will produce a noticeable increase in mid‑range and top‑end horsepower. On a 350 cubic‑inch small‑block Chevy, dyno tests show gains of 45 hp at 6000 rpm with peak torque shifting 500 rpm higher. On a 5.0L Ford, expect 35–40 hp. The engine will have a much more aggressive idle and will pull strongly past 5500 rpm.

For a deeper dive into cam selection and expected results, check MotorTrend’s camshaft installation guide. Also review the Trick Flow Stage 2 product page for up‑to‑date specs.

Conclusion

Installing a Trick Flow Stage 2 camshaft is a rewarding DIY project that can transform your vehicle’s performance. By following this detailed guide – from proper lubrication and timing verification to break‑in procedures – you can achieve the full 35–50 horsepower gains. Take your time, respect safety precautions, and don’t skip the supporting mods. With the right preparation, you’ll soon be enjoying a much stronger, more exciting engine in your ride.