How to Boost Your BRZ FA20 Power from 200 to 300 HP: Cost, Parts, and Results

The Subaru BRZ, Toyota 86, and Scion FR-S share the same legendary bones: a lightweight rear-wheel-drive chassis and the FA20 four-cylinder Boxer engine. While the car’s handling is universally praised, the stock 200 horsepower often leaves enthusiasts wanting more. A 50% increase to 300 wheel-horsepower is a popular and achievable target that transforms the car’s character without requiring a full rebuild. This guide details the components, costs, and outcomes of reaching that milestone while keeping the car reliable and street-friendly.

Understanding the FA20 Engine’s Strengths and Weaknesses

The FA20 is a 2.0-liter, naturally aspirated horizontally opposed (Boxer) engine with a 12.5:1 compression ratio. Its key features include direct injection, dual variable valve timing (AVCS on intake and exhaust), and a lightweight aluminum block and heads. The engine is designed for efficiency and throttle response, but its high compression and direct injection present unique challenges when adding boost.

What Holds the FA20 Back?

  • High Compression Ratio: 12.5:1 is excellent for naturally aspirated power but makes forced induction critical. Adding boost on stock compression limits maximum safe pressure to around 8–10 psi with proper tuning and fuel.
  • Direct Injection Limitations: Stock injectors run out of flow capacity around 280–300 wheel horsepower. Port injection or upgraded direct injectors are needed beyond that point.
  • Weak Valve Springs and Retainers: Stock valvetrain can float at high RPM on boosted applications, especially with aggressive cams or sustained high revs.
  • Rod and Piston Limits: The factory rods and pistons are sturdy for a stock car but are not forged. Above 350–400 whp, they become a weak point. For a 300 whp goal, they are sufficient with careful tuning.

Understanding these constraints helps you choose the right path and budget accordingly.

Laying the Foundation: Supporting Mods Before Forced Induction

Before installing a turbo or supercharger, certain upgrades ensure the car can handle and exploit the extra power safely. These mods also improve the driving experience even if you keep the car naturally aspirated for a while.

Intake and Exhaust

A high-flow cold air intake reduces restriction and provides a consistent air supply. Pair it with a cat-back exhaust (and ideally a header and front pipe) to improve exhaust flow. A good header like the Tomei UEL or JDL EL allows the engine to breathe and can yield 15–20 whp with a tune. A cat-back adds sound and a few horsepower.

Recommended parts:

  • Perrin CAI or Grimmspeed intake ($300–$450)
  • Borla, HKS, or Invidia cat-back exhaust ($800–$1,500)
  • JDL, Tomei, or ACE header ($600–$1,200)
  • R400 or similar front pipe ($200–$400)

ECU Tuning for Naturally Aspirated Setup

Even without forced induction, an ECU tune using software like ECUTek or a standalone like Haltech optimizes timing, fuel curves, and throttle response. A good NA tune on an otherwise stock engine typically adds 10–15 whp and smooths the power delivery. It also prepares the car for future boost by familiarizing the tuner with the platform.

Supporting Fuel System Upgrades

Stock fuel system components (fuel pump, injectors) are adequate for NA power, but forced induction will demand more. A DW300c fuel pump and upgraded injectors (e.g., 700cc or larger port injectors if you go with a kit that adds port injection) are common. Flex fuel capability (E85) is a huge bonus for octane and cooling, adding even more power safely.

Clutch and Drivetrain

Stock clutch slips around 280 whp. For 300 whp, a stage 2+ clutch and lightweight flywheel are mandatory. Recommended: ACT, Exedy, or OS Giken clutches paired with a lightweight flywheel (around 8–12 lbs). The transmission and differential are generally robust to 350 whp, but upgrading differential bushings and rear subframe inserts improves traction.

Choosing the Right Forced Induction System

Two primary paths exist: turbocharging or supercharging. Each has distinct characteristics, costs, and installation complexity.

Turbocharger Kits

Turbochargers offer high peak horsepower, excellent top-end pull, and a characteristic whoosh sound. They require more supporting modifications (intercooler, oil lines, wastegate, blow-off valve) and meticulous tuning to avoid knock.

Popular Turbo Kits:

  • Full Blown Motorsports Stage 2 Kit (uses Garrett GTX3076R, complete with intercooler, piping, and fuel system upgrades) – $5,500–$7,500
  • PTuning Turbo Kit (uses BorgWarner EFR or Garrett, includes intercooler and all lines) – $4,500–$6,500
  • Speed by Design (SBD) Kit (budget-friendly, reliable, well-tested) – $3,500–$5,000

Key considerations for turbocharging:

  • Lag: Smaller turbos (e.g., Garrett GT2860RS) spool quickly but top out sooner. Larger turbos (GTX3076R) make more peak power but spool around 4,000 rpm.
  • Heat management: Exhaust wrap, turbo blanket, and oil cooler are essential.
  • Plumbing complexity: Oil feed/drain lines, coolant lines, and intercooler piping require careful routing.
  • Tuning: A poor tune can destroy the engine; invest in a reputable tuner and consider flex fuel.

Supercharger Kits

Superchargers (centrifugal or positive displacement) deliver immediate, linear power with a distinct whine. They are generally easier to install (no oil lines to the engine, less plumbing) and retain better throttle response at low RPM.

Popular Supercharger Kits:

  • Jackson Racing C30-94 Centrifugal Supercharger Kit (complete with intercooler, fuel injectors, and tune) – $4,500–$6,000
  • Harrop TVS1320 Positive Displacement Supercharger (roots-type, huge low-end torque, top quality) – $6,000–$7,500
  • Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger (similar to Harrop, CARB legal, included tune) – $5,500–$7,000
  • Vortech V3 Si Supercharger (centrifugal, great for track use) – $4,000–$5,500

Supercharger considerations: Centrifugal chargers like Jackson Racing have linear power gain similar to a small turbo but without lag. Positive displacement (Harrop, Edelbrock) produce instant boost from idle, making the car feel much stronger at part throttle. They also produce more heat under continuous high load (track days) compared to centrifugals.

Turbo vs. Supercharger: Which Is Best for 300 HP?

For a 300 whp target, both work well. Superchargers tend to be simpler, more reliable, and provide a more predictable powerband for street use. Turbochargers allow for easier future upgrades (e.g., larger turbine housing for 350+ whp) and offer a different driving feel. Budget also plays a role: a quality supercharger kit often costs $1,000–$2,000 more than a comparable turbo kit, but installation is cheaper due to less complexity.

Detailed Cost Breakdown: From Stock to 300 HP

The total cost depends on parts, labor, and whether you do the work yourself. The following figures assume professional installation and tuning.

  • Header and Front Pipe: $800–$1,500 (if not included in forced induction kit)
  • Cold Air Intake: $300–$500 (usually included in kit)
  • Cat-Back Exhaust: $800–$1,500 (optional; adds sound and minor power)
  • Forced Induction Kit (Turbo or Supercharger): $4,500–$7,500
  • Fuel System Upgrades: $600–$1,200 (fuel pump, injectors, flex fuel sensor)
  • Clutch and Flywheel: $800–$1,500
  • ECU Tuning (includes ECUTek license, custom tune): $800–$1,500
  • Supporting Cooling: $500–$1,200 (oil cooler, upgraded radiator, intercooler if not in kit)
  • Labor (installation, tuning session): $1,500–$3,000

Total Estimated Range: $7,500 – $12,000

If you install the kit yourself and source used parts, you can potentially complete the build for under $6,000. Conversely, a turnkey shop build with premium parts (e.g., Harrop supercharger, full exhaust, custom tune) can exceed $15,000. Plan your budget carefully and prioritize safety (fuel, tuning, cooling).

Expected Results: Power, Drivability, and Reliability

With a properly executed forced induction setup and supporting mods, you can expect the following:

  • Turbocharged (medium-sized turbo, 8–10 psi): 280–320 whp / 220–250 lb-ft torque
  • Centrifugal Supercharged (8–9 psi): 270–300 whp / 210–230 lb-ft torque
  • Positive Displacement Supercharged (10–12 psi): 310–340 whp / 260–280 lb-ft torque (requires upgraded fuel system and careful tuning)
  • Flex Fuel (E85) on any of the above: +20–30 whp and much lower knock risk

The driving experience changes dramatically: torque fills in the mid-range, the car pulls strongly to redline, and highway passing becomes effortless. However, note that the FA20’s power peak remains higher in the rev range than typical boosted four-cylinders; 300 whp in a BRZ feels far quicker than a typical 300 hp sedan due to the car’s 2,800–lb curb weight.

Reliability and Maintenance

Reaching 300 whp with a stock internal FA20 is safe if you maintain proper air/fuel ratios, keep boost conservative (under 10 psi with pump gas, up to 12 psi with E85), and use quality oil. Still, the engine is more stressed than stock. Recommended practices:

  • Use 5W-30 full synthetic and change oil every 3,000–4,000 miles.
  • Monitor oil temperature (install an oil cooler).
  • Keep an eye on fuel pressure and knock via a reliable gauge or ECU logging.
  • Allow the car to warm up before heavy throttle.
  • Consider a catch can to reduce oil in the intake path (direct injection engines benefit greatly).

Many owners daily drive their 300 whp BRZs without major issues. However, track days require additional cooling (radiator, oil cooler, possibly intercooler upgrade) and a higher maintenance schedule.

Real-World Driving Impressions and Tuning Tips

A well-tuned 300 hp BRZ feels like a properly sorted sports car. The car’s chassis and brakes are already excellent; the power increase brings it closer to the Porsche Cayman or Lotus Exige territory. The key is smooth power delivery.

  • Tuner selection: Use a tuner experienced with the FA20 platform. Resources like FT86 SpeedFactory and the Subaru BRZ forums (e.g., ft86club.com) provide directories of reputable tuners.
  • Flex fuel advantage: Adding an ethanol content sensor and a flex fuel tune allows you to use E85 when available, dramatically reducing knock and increasing timing. It’s the single best upgrade after the forced induction kit itself.
  • Dyno vs. real-world: Dyno numbers vary; a 300 whp car that runs on a Dynojet may test 280 whp on a Mustang dyno. Focus on the drivability, not the peak number.

Conclusion: Is 300 HP Worth It?

Boosting a BRZ/FR-S/86 to 300 wheel horsepower is an involved but rewarding project. The cost (typically $8,000–$12,000) is comparable to that of a used economy car, but the result is a uniquely balanced, powerful, and exciting driver’s car. With careful part selection, proper tuning, and regular maintenance, the reliability remains acceptable for street use and occasional track days. If you’re ready to transform your lightweight coupe into a true performance machine, this is the path to follow. Start with a solid foundation, choose your induction method based on your driving style, and invest in a quality tune—you’ll turn heads every time you hit the throttle.