Installing a Garrett GT2871R turbo kit on your Honda S2000 is one of the most popular and effective ways to unlock serious horsepower from the F20C or F22C engine. Known for its quick spool, excellent mid-range torque, and ability to support up to around 400 wheel horsepower on a stock bottom end, this turbo is a favorite among enthusiasts who want reliable, streetable power. This comprehensive, step-by-step guide covers everything you need to know—from gathering tools and preparing the car, to fitting hardware, routing oil lines, and ensuring the engine management is calibrated for your new setup.

Tools and Materials

Before you start, gather all the required tools and components. Having everything on hand will save you multiple trips to the auto parts store and prevent frustrating delays.

Essential Tools

  • Complete socket set (metric: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm) – long extensions and swivel joints help reach tight spots
  • Combination wrench set (metric, same sizes as sockets)
  • Torque wrench – calibrated, 0–150 ft-lb range
  • Turbo-specific installation tools – turbocharger mounting gasket, manifold gaskets, anti-seize compound
  • Pry bar and flathead screwdrivers
  • Jack and jack stands (or lift)
  • Oil drain pan
  • Shop rags and brake cleaner
  • Heat gun (for silicone hose installation)
  • Drill and appropriate bit for oil pan return (if not using a pre-tapped pan)
  • Die grinder or sandpaper (for cleaning old gasket surfaces)
  • Multimeter (for electrical testing of boost gauge)

Garrett GT2871R Turbo Kit Components

  • Garrett GT2871R turbocharger (typically .64 A/R turbine housing for S2000)
  • Turbo manifold (equal-length tubular or cast – check your kit’s specifics)
  • Intercooler core and piping (typically 2.5” diameter)
  • Silicone hose couplers and T-bolt clamps
  • Oil feed line (preferably stainless steel braided with AN fittings)
  • Oil return line (with proper flange and AN adapters)
  • Turbo gasket set (manifold to head, turbo to manifold, downpipe to turbo)
  • Boost gauge and vacuum/boost line kit
  • Wastegate actuator (usually integrated on modern Garrett units)
  • Downpipe (3” recommended for minimal restriction)
  • Exhaust system modifications (if not full 3”)
  • Exhaust heat wrap or ceramic coating for manifold and downpipe
  • Upgraded fuel injectors (e.g., 600–750cc for moderate boost)
  • Fuel pump upgrade (e.g., Walbro 255 LPH or AEM 340)
  • Wideband oxygen sensor and gauge (for tuning)
  • Boost controller (manual or electronic like Grimmspeed, Turbosmart)
  • Engine stand removal or lift pan support (if dropping subframe for easier access)

Preparation

Proper preparation is the foundation of a clean, successful turbo installation. The S2000’s engine bay is tight, so spend time creating a clean workspace and understanding what you’re about to do.

  • Park the car on a level surface and disconnect the battery (negative terminal first). This prevents accidental short circuits and protects your ECU.
  • Jack the front of the car and support it securely on jack stands. You’ll need access underneath for oil lines and intercooler piping.
  • Drain the engine oil and coolant (if coolant lines are used – the GT2871R is typically oil-cooled only; verify your kit). An empty crankcase prevents oil spills when you disconnect lines.
  • Remove the front bumper cover and under-tray for better access to intercooler mounting area.
  • Take pictures of all stock connections (hoses, wiring, belt routings) before disassembling. This helps during reassembly.
  • Read through the entire guide and your kit’s specific instructions. Some kits vary in piping routing and bracket placement.

Step 1: Remove Stock Components

Begin by stripping away everything that will be replaced or relocated. This step is the most time‑consuming because many factory parts are tightly packed.

  • Remove the battery and battery tray (optional, but common for S2000 kits to free up space for intake piping).
  • Remove the stock air intake assembly and intake manifold (if your kit requires it; many kits reuse the stock intake manifold, but you may need to rotate or modify it).
  • Remove the exhaust manifold and heat shields. The manifold bolts on the F20C are prone to seizing – apply penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) ahead of time. Use a 14mm socket and extension with a wobble joint to reach rear bolts.
  • Disconnect the oxygen sensors (front and rear) by carefully unsnapping the wiring harness clips. Store them safely to avoid damage.
  • Remove the stock downpipe and mid-pipe (from the catalytic converter back, depending on your exhaust plan).
  • If your kit includes a different oil pan (for the return line), now is the time to remove the stock oil pan or drill/tap a return bung. Many kits provide a pre-tapped pan; if not, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for locating the return hole above the oil level.
  • Set aside all bolts, clips, and small parts in labeled bags for potential reuse.

Step 2: Install the Turbo Manifold

With the engine bay stripped of obstructing parts, the new manifold can be installed. This component must be torqued evenly to prevent exhaust leaks and cracking.

  • Clean the cylinder head mounting surface with a scraper and brake cleaner. Remove any leftover gasket material.
  • Place the new manifold gasket (copper or multi-layer steel recommended) onto the head studs. Some kits use a single gasket, others use separate gaskets per port.
  • Install the turbo manifold onto the studs. Use a new set of locking nuts (usually supplied). Tighten in a cross-pattern to the manufacturer’s torque spec (typically 30–35 ft-lb for M8 studs). Do not overtighten – these are aluminum threads.
  • If your manifold is tubular, consider wrapping it with exhaust heat wrap or applying ceramic coating before installation. This reduces under‑hood temperatures significantly.

Step 3: Attach the Turbocharger

The Garrett GT2871R mounts directly to the manifold. Proper alignment of the oil drain and feed ports is critical.

  • Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the turbo-to-manifold studs (if supplied) or bolts.
  • Position the turbo-to-manifold gasket and carefully lower the turbo onto the manifold. Ensure the oil return port faces the engine block (or your pre‑planned drain line path).
  • Torque the mounting nuts or bolts in stages – 15 ft-lb, then 25 ft-lb (or spec provided).
  • Before tightening fully, rotate the compressor housing so the outlet port points toward the intercooler (or front of car). The center section may allow rotation by loosening the v-band clamp or bolts. Consult your kit’s instructions.
  • Install the wastegate actuator arm onto the turbine housing lever – it should clip into place with a cotter pin or retaining clip.

Step 4: Install the Intercooler

An efficient intercooler is essential for consistent power. The S2000’s front bumper opening provides excellent airflow.

  • Remove the crash bar if necessary (some intercoolers are designed to fit behind the factory reinforcement). Many kits include a new crash bar that accommodates the larger core.
  • Mount the intercooler core to the lower radiator support using the supplied brackets. Position it so that the inlet and outlet face your preferred piping route (driver or passenger side).
  • Run the charge piping from the turbo compressor outlet to the intercooler cold side. Use silicone elbows and T‑bolt clamps. Avoid sharp bends that restrict airflow.
  • Connect the intercooler hot side outlet to the throttle body intake. On the S2000, the stock intake manifold often requires an adapter or a shortened section of pipe. Ensure you have the correct throttle body adapter (3″ to 2.5″ reducer is common).
  • Tighten all clamps until the silicone compresses but not so hard that you cut into the hose. Recheck torque after a few heat cycles.

Step 5: Connect Oil Feed and Return Lines

Correct oil line installation is the single most critical part of the turbo setup. A failed oil feed can destroy the turbo in seconds.

Oil Feed Line

  • Locate the engine oil pressure port (usually on the back of the block, near the intake manifold). For the S2000, a sandwich plate between the oil filter and block is the cleanest feed source. Another option is a banjo bolt at the oil pressure sender location.
  • Install the oil feed line (stainless steel braided with -4AN fittings) from the source to the turbo’s oil inlet (usually at the top of the center cartridge). Use a restrictor (0.040″–0.060″ orifice) if the turbo is not internally restricted – check Garrett’s guidelines.
  • Tighten all AN fittings using two wrenches – one to hold the fitting, another to tighten the nut. Do not overtighten.
  • Route the line away from hot exhaust components; use heat sleeve where it passes near the manifold.

Oil Return Line

  • The return line must have a slope downward from the turbo to the oil pan (gravity drain).
  • If your kit did not include a pre-tapped oil pan, drill a 1/2″ hole in the oil pan above the oil level (about 1.5″ from the bottom) and weld or J-B Weld a -10AN return bung in place. Allow to cure fully.
  • Connect the return line from the turbo’s bottom drain flange to the oil pan bung. Use a -10AN line or push-on hose with proper clamps. Ensure no kinks.
  • Double-check that the return line doesn’t contact the axle or subframe during suspension movement.

Step 6: Install Boost Gauge and Monitor

Monitoring boost pressure is mandatory. A boost gauge allows you to verify the system is working and detect overboost conditions.

  • Choose a mounting location – the driver side A‑pillar pod is common for the S2000. Alternatively, in-dash gauge pods are available.
  • Run the boost/vacuum line from the intake manifold (or a dedicated barb on the charge pipe) through the firewall grommet (behind the driver’s side kick panel). Use a nylon or silicone line with a T-fitting if you plan to add a boost controller.
  • Connect the gauge power (usually switched 12V from a fuse tap) and ground. Many boost gauges require a light source – tap into the dimmer switch wire as well.
  • Test the gauge by letting the engine idle – it should show vacuum (roughly 20 inHg). Rev the engine quickly and you should see boost (positive pressure) momentarily.
  • Optional: install a wideband air-fuel ratio gauge in the same pod for real-time tuning feedback.

Step 7: Reconnect and Perform Initial Checks

Before starting, go through a thorough checklist to prevent damage.

  • Double-check all oil connections – both feed and return. No leaks allowed.
  • Reconnect the battery. Turn the key to ON (not start) and listen for the fuel pump prime. Verify you have oil pressure gauge working.
  • Pre‑oil the turbo: Disconnect the ignition (remove the main relay or fuse) and crank the engine for 10 seconds to circulate oil through the turbo before it sees exhaust heat. Reconnect the ignition.
  • Start the engine and let it idle. Look for oil leaks at the turbo oil seal (dripping from compressor housing) and at all line connections. Listen for exhaust leaks – a ticking sound indicates manifold leaks.
  • Check for boost leaks: use a boost leak tester if available. Also test the wastegate actuator movement by applying compressed air to the boost reference port.
  • Take a short test drive at low boost (below 5 psi if you haven’t tuned yet). Gradually increase throttle while watching the boost gauge and wideband. If the air-fuel ratio goes lean (above 13:1 under boost), lift off immediately.

Tuning Your S2000

Installing the turbo is only half the battle. Without proper engine management, you risk detonation, high exhaust gas temperatures, and eventual engine failure. The F20C/F22C is sensitive to tuning due to its high compression and aggressive timing.

ECU Options

  • Hondata K-Pro or FlashPro – The most common solution for S2000 turbo setups. Allows fuel and ignition tuning, VTEC engagement, and sensor corrections. Best for moderate power levels (up to 400 whp).
  • AEM standalone (Series 1 or Infinity) – For high-horsepower builds (450+ whp). Offers full control but requires professional dyno tuning.
  • Ecotune or other piggybacks – Older systems; not recommended for reliability.

Important Tuning Parameters

  • Target air-fuel ratio: 11.5–12.0:1 under full boost (gasoline).
  • Ignition timing: reduce advance under boost – start with -2° per 1 psi of boost relative to stock map.
  • VTEC engagement: move to higher RPM (5000–5500) to avoid sudden torque spikes on the stock rods.
  • Boost control: set wastegate spring pressure (usually 5–7 psi) for the first tune. Increase boost only after the base fuel map is safe.
  • Fuel pump voltage: ensure the pump receives full voltage under load. Re-wire if necessary.
  • Injector scaling: larger injectors require proper latency and flow rate in the ECU.

We strongly recommend a dyno tune by a Honda specialist familiar with forced induction. Self-tuning with a generic map can lead to expensive damage.

Conclusion

Installing a Garrett GT2871R turbo kit on your S2000 transforms the car from a peaky handling machine into a linear torque monster. The mid-range pull from 3500 RPM to redline is addictive, and the turbo’s reliability is proven for street and track use. By following this guide, using quality components, and investing in professional tuning, you can enjoy a safe and powerful setup that will keep your S2000 exciting for years to come.

For further reading, check out Garrett’s official GT2871R technical page for detailed specifications, or browse Hondata’s S2000 tuning solutions and the S2Ki forced induction forum for build examples and community advice. Remember to upgrade your clutch, fuel system, and tires to handle the new power – the S2000 demands it.