How to Install Kratos Wheel Spacers: Step-by-Step Guide for a 5 HP Power Gain

Wheel spacers are one of those modifications that sit in a grey area between styling and performance. Kratos wheel spacers, in particular, claim an unusual benefit: a 5 horsepower gain. While that might sound like marketing fluff, the physics behind it is real. By widening the track width, you change the leverage point where the wheel applies force to the road, which can reduce parasitic loss in the drivetrain and improve mechanical grip. Proper installation is critical to realize that power increase and maintain safety. This guide walks you through every detail, from prep to final checks, so you can install Kratos spacers with confidence and actually feel the difference.

Why Kratos Wheel Spacers? Understanding the 5 HP Claim

Before diving into tools and steps, it’s worth understanding how a pair of metal rings can add power. The 5 HP gain from Kratos spacers isn’t an engine modification — it’s a reduction in frictional losses and rotational inertia. When you push the wheels outward, the suspension geometry changes slightly. The scrub radius (the point where the steering axis meets the road) can be optimized, reducing steering effort and internal friction in the hub and bearing assembly. Additionally, a wider stance provides better lateral grip, meaning less wheel spin during hard launches. That lost energy from tire slip is now transferred to forward motion. Combined with reduced unsprung weight (Kratos spacers are machined from 6061-T6 aluminum), you get a measurable but modest gain — typically 3 to 5 wheel horsepower.

For enthusiasts who have already done basic bolt-ons, this can close the gap to the next performance tier without a tune. But it only works if the installation is performed with precision. Skimping on torque specs or using dirty hubs can introduce vibration, preload, or even spacer failure. Follow these steps exactly to unlock the benefit.

Tools and Materials Needed

The right equipment makes the job safe and efficient. Don’t substitute cheap tools when dealing with wheel bolts — a failure at highway speed is catastrophic.

  • Kratos wheel spacers (correct fitment for your vehicle — hub-centric style preferred)
  • Floor jack (2-ton or higher, rated for your vehicle weight)
  • Jack stands (pair, with capacity matching your vehicle)
  • Wheel chocks (place behind rear wheels if lifting front, and vice versa)
  • Breaker bar (½‑inch drive, to break stubborn lug nuts)
  • Torque wrench (½‑inch drive, range 50–150 ft-lb typically)
  • Deep socket (correct size for your lug nuts — usually 17mm, 19mm, or 21mm)
  • Wire brush (to remove rust from hub face)
  • Brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol (to degrease mating surfaces)
  • Clean rags (lint-free)
  • Blue threadlocker (Loctite 242 or equivalent – optional but recommended for spacer-to-hub bolts)
  • Anti-seize compound (to prevent galvanic corrosion on lug studs)
  • Trim tool or flathead screwdriver (to remove wheel centre caps if needed)

If your Kratos spacers are the bolt-on type (separate studs that attach to the hub), verify that the supplied bolts are grade 10.9 or higher. Never reuse old bolts from a different spacer kit.

Step 1: Pre-Installation Preparation

Safety is non-negotiable. Park the vehicle on a level, solid surface — concrete is ideal. Engage the parking brake fully. Place wheel chocks on the opposite axle. If you’re lifting the front, chock the rear wheels on both sides.

Read the instructions that came with the spacers. Some Kratos kits require a specific order of assembly or have a left/right orientation. Mark the spacers with a piece of tape if needed. Also check that the hub bore of the spacer matches your vehicle’s hub pilot diameter. A hub-centric design (where the spacer ring grips the hub bore) is vastly superior to lug-centric spacers because it centres the wheel on the hub, not on the lug nuts. If your spacers are lug-centric, the installation torque sequence becomes even more critical.

Step 2: Lift the Vehicle Safely

Locate the factory jacking points in your owner’s manual. For most cars, the front subframe or pinch welds are used. Place the jack squarely under a designated point and raise the vehicle until the tyres are a few inches off the ground. Immediately slide jack stands under the frame rail or control arm mounts — never trust a jack alone. Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and give it a brisk shake to confirm stability.

If you are lifting only one axle at a time, the other axle remains on the ground with chocks. For a full set of four spacers, work one axle, then move the jack and stands to the other side.

Step 3: Remove the Wheels

With the vehicle securely supported, loosen the lug nuts slightly before removing them completely. Use a breaker bar or impact gun on low setting — do not spin them off at full speed as this can damage threads. Remove each lug nut and set them aside in a container (they can be reused if they are in good condition, but check for rounding or thread damage).

Carefully pull the wheel straight off the hub. If the wheel is stuck due to corrosion, do not hammer on the tyre sidewall. Instead, sit the vehicle back down on the wheel (with the spacer removed if already installed) and bounce the suspension, or use a rubber mallet on the back of the wheel barrel. Once the wheel is free, place it rotor-side up on a clean surface to avoid scratching the face.

Step 4: Clean and Inspect the Hub Assembly

This is the most overlooked step and the one that causes the most problems. Use a wire brush to scrub the hub face (the flat surface where the spacer sits). Remove all rust, dirt, and old brake dust. Follow up with brake cleaner on a rag to wipe away grease and residue. The hub must be perfectly clean — any debris will cause the spacer to sit at an angle, leading to vibration and premature bearing wear.

Also inspect the wheel studs. If they are bent or have damaged threads, replace them now. Check the rotor surface for deep grooves or cracks. While you’re there, it’s a good time to inspect brake pads and calipers.

Step 5: Install the Kratos Wheel Spacers

If your spacers are the type that bolt to the hub with their own studs (common for vehicles with bolt-on spacers), you need to attach them before mounting the wheel. Apply a small drop of blue threadlocker to each spacer bolt. Thread the bolts through the spacer’s outer holes into the hub. Tighten them by hand first, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the torque value specified in the Kratos manual (typically 80–100 ft-lb, but verify). Do not over-torque — aluminum spacers can strip threads if you go too far.

If your spacers are the slip-on type (just a ring that slides over the existing studs), simply align the spacer with the studs and push it flush against the hub. It should fit snugly with no play. If it wobbles, you may have the wrong bore size. Do not force it. A loose slip-on spacer will cause vibration and will not deliver the claimed performance gain.

After the spacer is seated, spin it by hand to confirm it runs true without binding.

Step 6: Reinstall the Wheels

Lift the wheel onto the spacer. For slip-on spacers, the wheel centre bore will now engage with the spacer’s outer pilot ring. Guide the wheel onto the studs carefully to avoid damaging threads. Hand-thread the lug nuts in a cross-pattern (star pattern) to ensure even seating. Tighten each nut snug with a ratchet — but leave them slightly loose so the wheel can centre itself.

If your spacers came with extended lug nuts, use only those. Stock lug nuts may not have enough thread engagement when a spacer is added. Thread engagement must be at least the diameter of the stud (typically 14mm or ~9 full turns). Check by screwing a lug nut onto a bare stud — if fewer than 9 threads are engaged, you need longer studs or a different spacer.

Step 7: Torque the Lug Nuts to Spec

This is where the power gain lives or dies. Use a calibrated torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s recommended torque for your vehicle (often between 80 and 110 ft-lb). Do not guess. Follow a star pattern in three stages: 50% of spec, then 75%, then final torque. For example, if spec is 90 ft-lb, first pass 45, second pass 68, final pass 90.

After torquing all nuts, go around again in the same pattern and verify each nut clicks. A common mistake is to set the torque wrench and only hit each nut once — but the first nut you tightened may have loosened slightly as you tightened the others. The second pass ensures even clamping.

Important: If your spacers use their own bolts (separate from the lug nuts), you torqued them in Step 5. Now you are torquing the wheel lug nuts onto the spacer studs. Keep those two torque values distinct in your mind.

Step 8: Lower the Vehicle

Remove the jack stands one side at a time. Place the jack under the lifting point and raise the vehicle slightly until the stand is free. Remove the stand, then lower the jack slowly. Repeat on the other side. Once all four wheels are on the ground, do a final torque check on each lug nut — the vehicle’s weight on the tyres allows the wheel to settle fully against the spacer. Re-torque in the star pattern one more time.

Step 9: Final Inspection and Clearance Checks

With the vehicle on the ground, turn the steering wheel full left and full right. Observe the gap between the tyre sidewall and the fender liner, as well as the suspension components (strut, sway bar end link, control arm). Spacers push the wheel outward, so clearance decreases. If you hear rubbing at full lock or over bumps, you may need to roll the fender lips or choose a narrower spacer. Kratos spacers are typically 15mm to 25mm thick; 20mm is a common sweet spot for most vehicles.

Also inspect the brake line — it should not be stretched or contacting the tyre. If it is, you installed spacers too thick for your vehicle.

Step 10: Test Drive and Re-Torque

Drive the car gently for 5–10 miles, including turns and light braking. Listen for clicking, humming, or vibration. After this short drive, park on level ground and re-torque every lug nut — spacers can settle as they bed into the hub face. It is normal to find a few nuts that need an extra quarter turn.

For the next 100 miles, check torque again after every drive. Once the nuts stop moving, you can extend the interval to every oil change. The 5 HP gain is most noticeable under hard acceleration from a stop — you’ll feel the car squats less and hooks up harder. Combine this with good tyres and you’ll shave tenths off your 0–60 time.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using a impact gun to final-torque: Impacts can over-torque or under-torque unpredictably. Always finish with a hand torque wrench.
  • Skipping the hub cleaning: Dirt creates a gap that allows the spacer to wobble, negating the power gain and damaging bearings.
  • Mixing spacer types: Do not stack two spacers on one hub. Always use a single, properly sized spacer per wheel.
  • Ignoring thread locker: On bolt-on spacers, vibrations can loosen the spacer bolts over time. A drop of blue Loctite prevents this without making removal impossible.
  • Assuming longer studs aren’t needed: If your spacer is thicker than 15mm, you likely need longer studs or an adapter-style spacer. Check thread engagement as described above.

Maintenance and Long-Term Care

Kratos spacers are anodized aluminum, resistant to corrosion, but they still need attention. Every 6 months or at every brake pad change, remove the wheel, clean the spacer face, and re-torque all fasteners. Inspect the spacer for cracks or deformation — especially if you drive on rough roads. A damaged spacer must be replaced immediately.

If you track your car, consider checking torque after each session. The expansion and contraction of components from heat can change clamp load.

Additional Resources

Conclusion

Installing Kratos wheel spacers is a weekend job that rewards you with a sharper driving feel, a more aggressive stance, and a genuine (if modest) power gain. The 5 HP figure comes from reduced friction, better contact patch utilization, and slightly lower unsprung mass. But that benefit only materializes if the installation is meticulous. Clean the hubs, torque everything to spec, use threadlocker where appropriate, and re-check after the first 100 miles. Follow this guide and you’ll not only gain horsepower — you’ll gain confidence that your car is ready for anything the road throws at it.