Tools, Materials & Safety Gear

A successful Borla S-Type Axle-Back install starts with gathering the right equipment. While the kit itself includes new clamps and sometimes hardware, you will need basic automotive tools and safety items.

Essential Tools

  • Socket wrench set – ideally 3/8‑inch drive with metric and SAE sockets (10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm are common). A ratcheting combination wrench set is also helpful.
  • Breaker bar – for stubborn exhaust hanger bolts. Adding a cheater pipe can provide extra leverage.
  • Penetrating lubricant – WD‑40 Specialist or Liquid Wrench to loosen rusted fasteners.
  • Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer – to gently tap stubborn hangers or exhaust tips into alignment.
  • Jack and jack stands – a low‑profile floor jack is ideal. The vehicle must be securely supported on stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
  • Safety glasses and work gloves – exhaust systems are hot, sharp, and covered in road grime.
  • Torque wrench – to tighten clamps and bolts to Borla’s specifications (typically 30–40 ft‑lb for clamp bolts).
  • Pry bar or flathead screwdriver – for prying rubber hangers off the exhaust pegs.
  • Replacement gaskets – even though the Borla kit may include a gasket, ordering a fresh OEM or aftermarket gasket for the axle‑back joint is cheap insurance against leaks.
  • Anti‑seize compound – apply to bolt threads and rubber hanger pins to prevent future corrosion.
  • Shop towels & hand cleaner – exhaust work is messy.
  • Camera or phone – take before‑and‑after photos of the stock exhaust hanger positions to simplify reinstallation.

Preparation Before Lifting the Vehicle

Park on a level surface and chock the front wheels securely. Allow the exhaust system to cool completely. A hot exhaust can cause severe burns and warps components during removal. While waiting, spray all exhaust hanger bolts and the rubber isolators with penetrating lubricant. Let it soak for at least 10 minutes – this dramatically reduces the chance of snapping a bolt.

Review the Borla installation instructions that come with the kit. Borla’s official website also provides PDFs for most part numbers. Confirm the kit is designed for your specific make, model, and engine configuration (e.g., 5.0L vs. 3.5L). Installing an incorrect part will lead to fitment issues and possible check‑engine lights.

Step 1: Lift the Vehicle and Secure It

Position the floor jack at the vehicle’s designated rear jacking point – usually the differential housing or a reinforced frame rail. Raise the rear until both rear wheels are off the ground, then place jack stands under the frame’s pinch welds or axle tubes. Lower the jack until the vehicle’s weight rests fully on the stands. Rock the vehicle gently to confirm stability. Never rely on a jack alone.

Safety note: If working on an incline, use ramps and wheel chocks, but axle‑back installations are much simpler with full rear clearance. Always wear safety glasses even if you are already wearing prescription lenses – falling debris and rust are common.

Step 2: Remove the Stock Exhaust

Inspect the factory exhaust system. Most modern vehicles have a single‑piece rear section (the axle‑back) that attaches to the intermediate pipe via a slip joint or flange. Look for two rubber hangers on each side that hold the assembly to the underbody.

2.1 Soak and Loosen Fasteners

Reapply penetrating lubricant to any bolts you missed earlier. If your vehicle uses a flange connection with bolts and springs, note the orientation – these springs are under tension and can pop out. Use a socket and breaker bar to loosen the flange nuts. If they are severely rusted, heat from a propane torch can help (keep fire extinguisher within reach). Avoid using an impact wrench on exhaust bolts as it may strip threads or snap them.

2.2 Remove Hangers

Slide a flathead screwdriver or pry bar between the rubber isolator and the hanger pin. Work the rubber off the pin. A spray of silicone lubricant will make this step easier. If the isolator is hardened with age, cut it off with a utility knife and replace it with a new one from an auto parts store.

2.3 Lower the Stock Exhaust

Once all hangers and the flange connection are free, slide the stock axle‑back tailpipe out toward the rear of the vehicle. It may contact the spare tire well or suspension components; tilt it downward gradually. Enlist a helper if the exhaust is heavy – two hands are safer. Place the old exhaust on a soft surface (cardboard or an old blanket) to avoid scratching paint or bending the tips.

Tip: If the slip joint is seized, apply penetrating oil while twisting and pulling. A rubber mallet can be used on the side of the mid‑pipe to break the corrosion bond. Never hammer directly on the catalytic converter or oxygen sensor.

Step 3: Inspect and Prepare the Borla Exhaust

Unbox the Borla S-Type Axle‑Back system and lay out the components: two muffler/tip assemblies (one left, one right), clamps, gaskets (if included), and hardware. Verify that the part number on the box matches your vehicle’s application. Check for any cosmetic damage – Borla’s polished stainless steel finishes scratch easily; report any issues to the vendor immediately.

3.1 Pre‑Install Checks

  • Compare hanger positions: The Borla unit should have metal hanger rods that align with the OEM rubber isolators. If they are slightly off, use a rubber mallet to adjust the rod angle.
  • Check the gasket: Most Borla S-Type kits use a flat metal gasket for the flange connection. If the gasket is missing or damaged, source a replacement from an auto parts store (e.g., Walker or Fel‑Pro).
  • Clean the mating surfaces: On the intermediate pipe flange, scrape off old gasket material and rust with a wire brush. A clean surface ensures a leak‑free seal.

3.2 Apply Anti‑Seize

Lightly coat the bolts and threads with anti‑seize compound. This prevents galling of stainless steel components and makes future disassembly much easier. Also apply a small amount to the rubber isolator pins – this will help the hanger rods slide in smoothly.

Step 4: Install the Borla S-Type Axle-Back

4.1 Position the System

Slide the Borla axle‑back under the vehicle. Start with the passenger‑side muffler assembly. Engage the flange over the intermediate pipe studs or into the slip joint. If using a slip joint, push the pipe fully home – a wiggle motion helps seat it. Install gaskets as needed. For flanged connections, hand‑tighten the nuts first to hold everything in place.

4.2 Attach Hangers

Firmly push the rubber isolators onto the Borla hanger rods. A spray of silicone lubricant on the rubber makes this effortless. If the rod seems too short or long, double‑check that you have the correct side (left vs. right). Repeat for the driver‑side assembly.

4.3 Align and Tighten

With both mufflers hanging loosely, step back and check the tip alignment from the rear. The Borla S-Type tips should be centered in the bumper cutouts and extend evenly (typically 1–2 inches beyond the bumper). Adjust by rotating the pipes slightly or bending the hanger rods with a rubber mallet.

Once aligned, tighten the flange nuts or clamp bolts to Borla’s recommended torque: usually 30–40 ft‑lb. Use a torque wrench to avoid over‑tightening, which can distort flanges or strip threads. For slip‑joint connections, tighten the clamp bolts evenly on both sides.

4.4 Final Adjustments

Check that the exhaust does not contact the spare tire well, heat shields, or any suspension components. Start the engine briefly (vehicle still on jack stands) and listen for rattles. If you hear tapping, shut the engine off and reposition the muffler. Re‑check tip alignment after a few minutes of idling – heat can cause slight expansion and shift the pipes.

Step 5: Lower the Vehicle and Perform a Full System Check

Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Now perform a thorough inspection:

  • Leaks: With the engine running, hold a gloved hand near the flange or slip joint – any air puff indicates a leak. Tighten the joint slightly (¼ turn at a time) while the system is cool.
  • Clearance: Turn the steering fully left and right to ensure the exhaust does not contact the steering rack or driveshaft. Check that the tailpipes are not touching the bumper or rear valance.
  • Sound quality: Let the engine idle for a few minutes. The Borla S-Type has a deep, mellow idle. Walk around the vehicle – any excessive drone or metallic rattle should be addressed before driving.

If you detect a minor exhaust leak at the flange, the gasket may require a second tightening after the first heat cycle. Drive the vehicle gently for 20 miles, then re‑torque the bolts while the system is still warm (but not hot). This is known as a “hot‑torque” and is recommended by professional exhaust shops.

Driving Impression and Break‑In Period

The Borla S-Type Axle-Back is engineered for a noticeable but refined sound. You will immediately hear a deeper, more aggressive tone at startup and under acceleration. On the highway, expect a mild but pleasant drone inside the cabin – slightly louder than stock, but far less intrusive than some straight‑through designs. Over the first 500 miles, the exhaust will develop a fuller sound as deposits form on the packing material (if using an absorbing muffler design) or as the stainless steel work‑hardens.

Performance gains from a cat‑back or axle‑back are typically 3–8 horsepower and 5–10 lb‑ft of torque, but the real benefit is weight reduction (the Borla system weighs about 10–12 pounds less than most OEM assemblies) and a more responsive throttle feel. You won’t need an ECU tune unless you combine this with a downpipe or a full turbo‑back system.

Maintenance Tips

  • Clean the tips regularly: Borla’s polished stainless steel tips can be cleaned with a non‑abrasive metal polish (e.g., Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish) to keep them mirror‑bright. Avoid steel wool; it leaves scratches.
  • Re‑torque clamps: After the first 250 miles, check the clamp bolts. Vibrations can cause them to loosen slightly.
  • Inspect hangers: Rubber isolators can crack after a few years of extreme heat and road salt. Replace them if they show signs of deterioration.
  • Watch for soot or water leaks: A small amount of condensation dripping from the slip joint is normal. Excessive black soot around a joint indicates a leak that needs tightening.

Common Questions and Troubleshooting

Q: The exhaust tips are not centered. How do I fix this?

Loosen the slip joint clamps and rotate the muffler assembly. You can also slightly bend the hanger rods using a large adjustable wrench. Borla designs their hangers with some adjustability.

Q: I hear a buzzing noise at certain RPMs.

This is often caused by the exhaust touching the spare tire well or a heat shield. Use a pry bar to gently bend the interfering part away. If the noise persists, check that all hanger rods are fully seated in their isolators.

Q: Do I need to replace the exhaust gasket?

It is always best practice to replace the donut gasket or flat gasket during removal. The Borla kit may include a gasket, but if it is a generic style that doesn’t match your OEM flange perfectly, purchase the correct OEM gasket from a dealership or online parts retailer. A bad gasket causes a ticking sound and potential exhaust fumes inside the cabin.

External Resources

Conclusion

Installing a Borla S-Type Axle-Back exhaust is one of the most rewarding DIY upgrades you can perform. With careful preparation, quality tools, and attention to fitment, the job takes about 1.5 to 3 hours in a home garage. The payoff is immediate: a richer exhaust note, a sportier driving experience, and a visual upgrade with those polished tips. Regular maintenance and periodic torque checks will keep the system sounding great for the life of the vehicle. Enjoy the open road with your newly amplified Borla S-Type – just don’t be surprised when neighbors take notice.