Installing a Borla ATAK exhaust system on your muscle car delivers a dramatic improvement in both auditory experience and engine performance. The ATAK (Acoustically Tuned Applied Kinetics) series is engineered for enthusiasts who want the most aggressive, track-inspired sound without sacrificing power gains. However, a successful installation requires preparation, patience, and attention to detail. This guide provides comprehensive tips and expanded steps to ensure your muscle car’s new exhaust system is installed correctly and performs at its peak.

Why Upgrade to Borla ATAK?

Before diving into the installation, it helps to understand what makes the ATAK line unique. Borla’s ATAK systems use proprietary reflective sound cancellation technology to eliminate drone while amplifying the engine’s natural roar. The result is a deep, aggressive tone that turns heads and adds real horsepower and torque gains — typically 10–15 hp on modern muscle cars like the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Camaro, or Dodge Challenger. The systems are crafted from T-304 stainless steel, ensuring corrosion resistance and long-term durability, and they come with Borla’s million-mile warranty.

For a deeper dive into the technology, visit Borla’s official website to explore product specifications, sound clips, and vehicle-specific fitment guides.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Proper preparation prevents problems. Having the right tools on hand before you start will save trips to the hardware store and keep the installation moving smoothly. In addition to the standard automotive toolkit, consider the following items:

  • Socket and wrench set — Metric and SAE sizes (½-inch and ¾-inch sockets are common on exhaust fasteners)
  • Torque wrench — For tightening clamps and bolts to factory specs
  • Jack and jack stands — At least two heavy-duty stands for safe lifting
  • Penetrating oil — Such as WD-40 or PB Blaster, to loosen rusted bolts
  • Exhaust hanger removal tool — Makes disconnecting rubber hangers much easier
  • Safety glasses and gloves — Protects from debris, sharp edges, and exhaust soot
  • Shop rags or towels — For picking up grease and keeping the workspace clean
  • Catalytic converter safe anti-seize compound — For reassembly

If your vehicle has been driven in winter salt, plan extra time for stubborn fasteners. A reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade may be needed if bolts are seized beyond saving.

Preparing Your Muscle Car

Work area and safety

Park the car on a level, solid surface. Make sure the engine is completely cool to avoid burns from hot exhaust components. Disconnect the negative battery terminal — this prevents accidental short circuits and resets the ECU so it can adapt to the new exhaust profile later.

Lifting the vehicle correctly

Use a floor jack to raise the rear of the car (or the entire car, depending on the system) and place jack stands under the manufacturer-recommended lift points. For many muscle cars, the pinch welds or frame rails are safe spots. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. After lifting, give the vehicle a gentle shake to ensure it is stable.

Removing the old exhaust

Start by soaking every nut, bolt, and hanger you can reach with penetrating oil. Let it sit for 10–15 minutes. Then, work from the rear forward: remove the tailpipe sections, mufflers, and mid-pipe. You may need to cut the factory exhaust if it is a one-piece design. Use the hanger removal tool to pop the rubber isolators free. If any bolts strip or break, drill them out or use a bolt extractor — but be careful not to damage threaded flanges on the header or catalytic converter.

Once the old components are off, inspect the existing flange gaskets and catalytic converter connections. Replace any gaskets that are hardened or damaged.

Installing the Borla ATAK Exhaust System

The Borla ATAK system is designed for a bolt-on installation, but following a logical sequence ensures everything aligns properly.

Test fitting before final tightening

Before tightening anything, loosely assemble the entire exhaust system — from the mid-pipe (or cat-back connection) back to the tailpipes. This allows you to adjust the position of each section for optimal clearance around the axle, frame, and bumper. Use the supplied Borla clamps and hangers. Do not fully tighten yet.

Step-by-step installation

  1. Attach mid-pipe — Connect the front section of the ATAK system to the factory catalytic converter or header collector. Use a new gasket if required. Torque the flange bolts to 30–35 ft-lbs (check your vehicle’s specific spec).
  2. Install muffler assemblies — The ATAK mufflers are typically straight-through design. Slip them onto the mid-pipe and loosely install the hanger isolators. Position the mufflers so they do not contact the underbody; Borla often includes adjustable hanger brackets for fine-tuning.
  3. Fit the tailpipes and tips — Slide the tailpipes onto the muffler outlets and also into the hanger isolators. Adjust the tips so they are centered in the bumper cutouts and stick out evenly — usually about ½ to 1 inch.
  4. Tighten all clamps and hangers — Following the sequence: start at the mufflers, then the tailpipes, then the mid-pipe. Torque band clamps to 30–40 ft-lbs, or as specified by Borla. Snug all 14mm or 15mm bolts firmly but avoid overtightening which can deform the clamps.
  5. Check clearance — Rotate each wheel (if possible) and verify no part of the exhaust contacts drive shafts, sway bars, or brake lines. Leave at least ½ inch of space from any chassis or suspension components.

Important torque specifications

Below are common torque values for Borla systems. Always refer to the instructions that come with your specific kit.

  • Flange bolts (catalytic converter to mid-pipe): 30–35 ft-lbs
  • Band clamps: 30–40 ft-lbs
  • Hanger bracket bolts: 15–20 ft-lbs
  • Tip screws (if applicable): 5–7 ft-lbs

Post-Installation Checks and Adjustments

Visual and audible inspection

Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Let it idle for a few minutes to warm up. Listen for any rattles or metallic contact — if you hear something, shut the engine off and check clearance around the mufflers and tips. A small adjustment of the hanger position often solves ticking noises.

Leak test

With the engine running, hold a gloved hand near each joint (flange, clamp, and muffler connection). If you feel pulses of air or hear a hissing sound, tighten the clamps further or reposition the gasket. For hard-to-reach spots, use a smoke machine or sprayed soapy water (bubbles indicate a leak).

Road test and ECU adaptation

Take the car for a 10–15 minute drive on varied roads. The first few miles are critical — the exhaust will “burn in” and the sound may deepen. If your car has adaptive engine management (most modern muscle cars do), the ECU will adjust fuel trims and ignition timing over the next 20–30 miles to optimize performance. Expect a slight increase in power and torque, especially in the mid-range. For a professional tune recommendation, check resources like Muscle Cars & Classics for model-specific dyno results.

Long-Term Maintenance and Care

Borla’s T-304 stainless steel resists rust, but it is not indestructible. Salt and road grime can still dull the finish and corrode welds over years. To keep your ATAK system looking and sounding its best:

  • Clean the tips regularly — Use a non-abrasive stainless steel polish to remove smudges and exhaust soot.
  • Retighten clamps after the first 100 miles — Components settle after thermal expansion cycles. A quick re-torque prevents leaks.
  • Inspect hangers and isolators — Rubber hangers can crack from heat cycles. Replace them if they become brittle.
  • Check for misalignment — Off-road use or potholes may shift the system. Ensure tips still sit centered.
  • Consider professional inspection annually — A muffler shop can spot issues before they become major problems.

For detailed cleaning guides and Borla’s official care recommendations, visit Borla’s cleaning and care page.

Troubleshooting Common Installation Issues

Road noise or droning

While ATAK systems are designed to minimize drone, some resonance may occur if the system contacts the chassis or if hangers are too tight. Loosen the isolators slightly and verify no metal-to-metal contact. If drone persists, install Borla’s optional resonator (available for some vehicles).

Check Engine Light (CEL)

If you install a cat-back system, the CEL should not illuminate. However, if you replaced downpipes or removed catalytic converters, you may trigger a P0420 code. Either install a mini catalytic converter or have the code tuned out by a professional.

Alignment issues with aftermarket rear bumpers

Custom or aftermarket bumpers may require tip extension or relocation. Borla offers adjustable tip adapters for many models. If still off, contact Borla’s technical support — they can recommend specific hardware.

Sound and Performance Characteristics

The Borla ATAK is the loudest offering from Borla, but it maintains a controlled tone. At idle, it delivers a deep rumble. Under heavy throttle, it screams with authority — similar to a NASCAR-inspired exhaust note. Many owners report improved throttle response, and dyno tests show gains across the RPM band. For example, a 2019 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack gained 14 hp and 17 lb-ft of torque with a Borla ATAK cat-back system (source: DragTimes). If you value a daily driver’s civility with weekend warrior aggression, this system is a top choice.

Conclusion

Installing a Borla ATAK exhaust system on your muscle car is a rewarding upgrade that transforms both sound and performance. With careful preparation, methodical installation, and post-installation checks, you can enjoy decades of reliable service — backed by Borla’s industry-leading warranty. Whether you own a Mustang, Camaro, Charger, or Challenger, this guide gives you the knowledge to do the job right the first time. Once you hear that motor roar to life, you’ll know it was worth every minute under the car.