Upgrading your Durango SRT with a Borla exhaust system is one of the most rewarding modifications you can make. It sharpens throttle response, unleashes the 6.4L HEMI’s true character, and transforms the cabin experience from muted to menacing. This guide provides a comprehensive walkthrough for the DIY installer, covering everything from the preliminary checklist to final sound check, along with a realistic cost breakdown. Whether you are chasing track-prepped performance or simply want that deep, aggressive growl on the daily commute, these steps will help you get the job done safely and correctly.

Why Choose Borla for Your Durango SRT?

Borla Performance Industries has been engineering exhaust systems for over 40 years, earning a reputation for quality, fitment, and distinct sound. Their systems for the Durango SRT are typically available in three options: ATAK (the loudest and most aggressive), S-Type (a balanced tone with mild drone control), and Touring (a deeper tone with minimal interior noise). All are constructed from T-304 stainless steel for corrosion resistance and long life, and they include a million-mile warranty that speaks to Borla’s confidence in its manufacturing. The direct bolt-on design means no cutting or welding is required on stock configurations, making it an ideal project for an intermediate DIYer.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before you roll under the vehicle, gather everything you need. A complete set prevents frustrating trips to the hardware store mid-install.

Essential Tools

  • Socket set – Deep and shallow sockets in 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm; a 3/8” and 1/2” drive ratchet are both helpful.
  • Wrench set – Combination wrenches in matching sizes, plus a line wrench for any stubborn exhaust-nut fittings.
  • Jack and jack stands – A low-profile floor jack (minimum 3-ton capacity) and two 6-ton jack stands are recommended for the heavy SUV.
  • Impact gun (optional but time-saving) – For removing rusted bolts quickly.
  • Safety goggles – Splash-resistant, ANSI-rated.
  • Mechanics gloves – Cut-resistant, with good grip for handling hot or sharp metal.
  • Penetrating oil – Such as WD‑40 Specialist or PB Blaster. Spray exhaust hanger bushings and bolts the night before to ease removal.
  • Rubber mallet – For persuading stuck hangers and aligning tips.
  • Pipe spreader or exhaust hanger tool – Helps separate rubber isolators from metal hangers without tearing.
  • Torque wrench – To tighten clamps to specification (usually 30–35 ft-lb for Borla band clamps).

Materials

  • Borla exhaust system – Verify part number for your Durango SRT year (2018–2023 typically use same platform). Check that all components are included: cat-back pipes, muffler/resonator assembly, clamps, and tips.
  • Replacement exhaust gaskets (if not included) – For the connection at the catalytic converters.
  • Anti-seize compound – Apply to fasteners to simplify future removal.
  • Exhaust hangers – Pre-purchase OEM-style hangers if your stock ones are cracked or missing.
  • Shop rags – For cleanup and checking for leaks.

Step-by-Step Installation Process

Step 1: Preparation and Safety

Park your Durango SRT on a level, hard surface. Engage the parking brake and chock the front wheels. Disconnect the negative battery cable (optional but recommended to avoid any accidental electrical shorts when working near sensors). Let the exhaust system cool completely if the vehicle has been run recently. Put on your safety goggles and gloves before you go under the truck.

Step 2: Lifting the Vehicle

Position the floor jack at the rear differential or at the designated frame lift points (consult your owner’s manual). Raise the rear of the vehicle until the wheels are just off the ground, then place jack stands under the frame rails behind the rear wheels. Lower the jack slowly onto the stands and verify the vehicle is stable. Shake the SUV gently to confirm it won’t shift. For extra working room, you may also lift the front slightly on stands, though the cat-back install only requires rear clearance.

Step 3: Removing the Stock Exhaust System

With the vehicle secure, locate the exhaust system from the catalytic converters back. Spray any bolts or hanger bushings that look corroded. Starting at the rear, remove the exhaust tips (if separate) by loosening the set screws. Then, use a socket to unbolt the connection flanges at each muffler or mid-pipe. Hold the pipe with your hand while loosening to prevent it from falling. Once flanges are disconnected, pry the rubber isolators off the metal hanger studs using a flathead screwdriver or a dedicated hanger tool. Slide the stock exhaust out from under the vehicle in sections – ask a helper to hold one end if necessary. Some Durango SRT models have a single-piece cat-back system under the axle; you may need to tilt it carefully to clear the spare tire well. Stubborn bolts can be removed with an impact gun or by heating gently with a propane torch (avoid flames near fuel lines or brake parts).

Step 4: Installing the Borla Exhaust System

Unbox the Borla system and lay out all components. Compare each pipe to the stock layout – Borla parts are typically numbered or etched with orientation marks. Apply anti-seize to all bolt threads. Begin at the front: attach the Borla front Y-pipe or mid-pipe to the catalytic converter flanges using the supplied gaskets and hardware. Hand-tighten bolts. Work your way rearward, installing each section loosely. Use the rubber hangers provided (or reuse stock ones if they are in good shape) to support the system. Connect the muffler/resonator section and finally the tailpipe with tips. Leave all clamps slightly loose to allow for adjustment.

Step 5: Aligning the Exhaust Tips

This step is critical – you want the dual tips centered in the Durango SRT’s rear bumper cutouts. With the system hanging loosely, adjust the tips left/right and up/down. Use a measuring tape to ensure equal gaps on both sides. Once satisfied, tighten the tip clamps firmly (but not to full torque yet). Step back and check the alignment at the bumper edge.

Step 6: Securing the Exhaust System

Starting at the front, tighten all flange bolts to the manufacturer’s torque spec (usually 30–35 ft-lb for Borla band clamps). Then tighten the hanger isolators into place – make sure the rubber bushings are fully seated. Do a final walk-around to verify no part of the system touches the underbody, frame, driveshaft, or wiring. Borla systems are engineered to clear the Durango’s spare tire and brake lines, but double-check. Any contact will cause rattles and possible heat damage.

Step 7: Lowering the Vehicle

Remove the jack stands carefully, one side at a time. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Reconnect the negative battery cable if you disconnected it. Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for any exhaust leaks – a puffing sound or smell indicates a loose clamp or misaligned gasket. If you hear a leak, shut off the engine, locate the source, and tighten the corresponding connection. Re-check after a short drive.

Step 8: Testing and Final Check

Take the Durango SRT on a 10–15 minute drive incorporating different conditions: idle, steady cruise, acceleration, and deceleration. Listen for drone at 1500–2000 RPM (the Borla S‑Type effectively minimizes this, while the ATAK may exhibit some). After the drive, park and check all clamps again – heat cycles often cause bolts to loosen slightly the first time. Re-torque if needed. If everything remains tight and leak‑free, the installation is complete.

Cost Analysis: DIY vs. Professional Installation

Understanding the full financial picture helps you decide whether to tackle this project yourself. Below is a detailed breakdown of the costs associated with installing a Borla exhaust on a Durango SRT.

Item Low Estimate High Estimate
Borla exhaust system (model dependent) $1,200 (Touring) $1,800 (ATAK)
Sales tax (8% average) $96 $144
Shipping (if not free) $0 $50
Tools (if you need to buy them new) $50 (basic socket set) $200 (impact gun + torque wrench)
Replacement gaskets / hangers $0 (included) $30
Professional labor (if not DIY) $250 (2 hours) $500 (4 hours)
Total DIY $1,250 $1,994
Total professional install $1,496 $2,494

Keep in mind that prices vary by region and retailer. Purchasing through an authorized Borla dealer often includes free shipping and warranty support. If you are not confident in your mechanical skills, paying a trusted shop $250–$500 is a worthwhile investment to avoid potential damage or improper fitment. Always factor in the cost of a post-install alignment check – some shops charge an additional fee for tip adjustment.

Alternative Cost-Saving Strategies

  • Buy a used Borla system from a reputable forum (like DurangoForum.com) – prices can drop to $800–$1,000, but inspect for damage and rust.
  • Install the exhaust yourself but have a muffler shop do the final torque check for a small fee.
  • Order during holiday sales (Black Friday, Memorial Day) for 10–15% off MSRP.

Sound Characteristics and Performance Gains

What can you expect after the installation? The Borla system – especially the ATAK variant – produces a pronounced growl at idle that deepens into a full-throated roar under wide‑open throttle. The Borla ATAK for the Durango SRT is known for a crisp, aggressive note without obnoxious drone at highway speeds. The S‑Type offers a performance tone with some cabin resonance, while the Touring is the quietest but still louder than stock. All systems free up an estimated 5–10 horsepower at the wheels (less restrictive mufflers) and reduce weight by 10–20 pounds versus the factory stainless and muffler assembly.

Owners also report improved throttle response and a more linear power delivery, particularly in the mid‑range. The sound is most dramatic between 2500–4500 RPM, where the 6.4L HEMI’s active exhaust valves have already opened on stock SRTs – the Borla system simply magnifies that signature rumble.

Real Owner Experiences

“I installed the Borla ATAK on my 2020 Durango SRT. It took me about 3.5 hours with a buddy. The sound is perfect – aggressive when you want it, civilized when cruising. My only regret is not doing it sooner.” – SRT_Sam (DurangoForums)

“If you have a stock SRT and want more volume without drone, get the S‑Type. Cold starts are loud, but once you’re moving, it’s the best balance between angry and daily‑drivable.” – DWK_UT (Reddit r/DodgeDurango)

Common Installation Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Stuck exhaust hangers: Apply penetrating oil several hours before starting. Use a hanger removal tool instead of a screwdriver to avoid tearing the rubber.
  • Misaligned tips: Work from the front to the back, leaving all clamps loose until tips are positioned. Use a helper to hold the tailpipe while you mark the bumper location.
  • Leaks at flange connections: Always use new gaskets. Clean the mating surfaces with a wire brush before assembling. Torque in a star pattern.
  • Rattling against spare tire or chassis: Check clearance before driving. Use an exhaust hanger spacer or a small rubber isolator to create a buffer.

Final Thoughts

Installing a Borla exhaust on your Durango SRT is one of the highest‑reward modifications for the money. The step‑by‑step process is manageable for a confident DIYer, and the cost is well within reasonable upgrade budgets. Whether you choose the thunderous ATAK, the balanced S‑Type, or the refined Touring, you will enjoy a noticeably more exciting driving experience every time you fire up the HEMI. For an even deeper dive into sound clips and installation videos, visit the official Borla website or check out a detailed install guide on YouTube from a reputable automotive channel. With the proper tools, a clean workspace, and a little patience, your Durango SRT will be ready to sound as mean as it looks.