When your build surpasses the 500-horsepower mark, the factory clutch becomes the weakest link in your drivetrain. A pedal that once felt firm now slips under hard throttle, and engagement becomes unpredictable. The Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch is engineered specifically for this power level, offering a robust multi-disc design that can handle the torque without sacrificing streetability. In this expanded guide, we’ll walk through the complete installation process, discuss the engineering behind the kit, and outline the real-world gains you can expect after the swap.

Why Upgrade to a Stage 3 Clutch for 500+ HP?

Standard single-disc clutches rely on a single friction surface to transfer torque. At 500+ hp, that surface area is simply not enough. Heat builds quickly, glazing occurs, and the clutch begins to slip under load. A Stage 3 setup from Clutch Masters employs a multi-disc configuration (typically twin or triple discs) that multiplies the available friction area. This allows the clutch to hold significantly more torque while maintaining a pedal effort that is still manageable for daily driving.

Another key advantage is the use of high-performance friction materials such as Kevlar or carbon-metallic compounds. These materials resist heat fade far better than organic linings, meaning consistent clamping force even after repeated hard launches or track sessions. The Clutch Masters Stage 3 also features a heavy-duty diaphragm pressure plate with increased clamp load, ensuring the disc remains locked against the flywheel under high rpm shifts.

Important: While a Stage 3 clutch can handle over 500 hp, it does introduce a more aggressive engagement feel. Drivers should expect a more on/off characteristic compared to a softer organic clutch. This is a trade-off for the increased torque capacity.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before you roll the car into the garage, gather everything you’ll need. Having all tools on hand prevents unnecessary downtime once the transmission is out.

  • Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch kit – Includes pressure plate, disc(s), release bearing, pilot bearing, alignment tool, and often a new flywheel or flywheel bolts.
  • Socket set – Both metric and SAE, with extensions and universal joints for hard-to-reach bolts.
  • Torque wrench – Critical for tightening pressure plate and flywheel bolts to spec. A beam-style or click-type with ft-lb and in-lb ranges.
  • Jack and jack stands – A low-profile transmission jack is highly recommended for supporting the gearbox.
  • Transmission fluid – Use the manufacturer-recommended type, often a GL-4 or GL-5 synthetic gear oil.
  • Clutch alignment tool – Usually included with the kit; if not, purchase one sized for your input shaft spline.
  • Brake cleaner – Aerosol type for degreasing flywheel and pressure plate surfaces.
  • Shop towels – Lint-free preferred, to wipe down components before assembly.
  • Safety glasses and gloves – Protecting yourself from debris and chemicals.
  • Penetrating oil – For stubborn exhaust or transmission bolts that may be rusted.
  • Wire brush – To clean bellhousing mating surfaces and input shaft splines.

Optionally, having an extra set of hands during the transmission removal and reinstallation will save time and reduce the risk of damage. If you do not have access to a transmission jack, a floor jack with a piece of plywood can work, but be cautious of balance.

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation makes the job smoother and safer. Follow these steps before lifting the vehicle:

  • Disconnect the battery – Always disconnect the negative terminal first to prevent accidental shorts or airbag deployment.
  • Park on level ground – Chock the rear wheels if the car is rear-wheel drive, or front wheels if front-wheel drive.
  • Remove the shift knob and boot – If working on a manual transmission, removing the interior shift lever components can make access to the top bolts easier once the transmission is lowered.
  • Clear the workspace – Ensure there is enough room to move around all sides of the vehicle. A clean floor prevents losing small parts like bolts or snap rings.
  • Lift and secure the vehicle – Jack up the front or rear depending on drivetrain layout. Use jack stands rated for at least the weight of the vehicle plus components. Never rely on the jack alone.
  • Remove the wheels – This provides clearance to access suspension components and the transmission bellhousing bolts. Support the vehicle on stands placed at the frame or subframe points.

If your vehicle has an exhaust cross-pipe or driveshaft loop that obstructs transmission removal, address those now. It is common to need to drop the exhaust mid-pipe or remove the starter motor to free the bellhousing.

Removing the Old Clutch Assembly

With the car safely secured and the driveline exposed, begin removing the old components. Work methodically and label bolts as you go.

Step 1: Drain Transmission Fluid

If you haven't already, drain the transmission fluid from the drain plug. This prevents spillage when the transmission is tilted during removal. Replace the drain plug with a new crush washer if necessary.

Step 2: Remove Driveshaft (RWD/AWD) or Axles (FWD)

For rear-wheel drive, mark the flange alignment before removing the driveshaft bolts. Slide the driveshaft out of the transmission tailhousing and support it with a strap. For front-wheel drive, remove the axles from the transmission by prying from the differential. Be aware of transmission fluid loss.

Step 3: Disconnect Sensors and Linkage

Unplug the reverse light switch, speedometer sensor, and any neutral safety switch connectors. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing without disconnecting the hydraulic line – just two bolts and wire it out of the way. For cable-operated clutches, disconnect the cable from the release arm.

Step 4: Support and Lower the Transmission

Position your transmission jack under the gearbox. Secure it with a strap if possible. Remove the crossmember and tailhousing mount. Then remove the bellhousing bolts (or transmission-to-engine bolts for integral bellhousing). Carefully lower the transmission a few inches and check for any remaining connections, especially the vent line and wiring. Once clear, slide the transmission rearward and lower it completely.

Step 5: Remove Pressure Plate and Disc

With the transmission out, unbolt the pressure plate in a star pattern to prevent warping. Remove the pressure plate and the clutch disc. Inspect the old flywheel for heat cracks or glazing. If you are reusing the flywheel, have it resurfaced or machined. For high-hp builds, it is recommended to replace the flywheel with the Clutch Masters billet steel or chromoly unit included in some kits. Clean the crankshaft flange surface with brake cleaner and a shop towel.

Installing the Clutch Masters Stage 3

Installation of the new clutch requires attention to detail. Follow these steps precisely.

Step 1: Install the Pilot Bearing

Remove the old pilot bearing from the crankshaft using a puller or a slide hammer. Install the new bearing included with your Clutch Masters kit. If the bearing is a roller type, gently tap it into place using a suitable driver that contacts the outer race. Apply a light coat of high-temp grease to the inner surface.

Step 2: Mount the Flywheel

Clean the crankshaft mating surface again. Place the new flywheel onto the crankshaft alignment dowels. Install the bolts finger-tight, then torque in a crisscross pattern to the manufacturer’s specification (typically 75-85 ft-lb for most applications, but always verify). Use thread locker such as Loctite 242 on the bolts if recommended by Clutch Masters.

Step 3: Install the Clutch Disc with Alignment Tool

Insert the clutch alignment tool through the center of the disc – ensure the disc is oriented correctly: most have a side marked "flywheel side". Slide the tool into the pilot bearing until the disc is centered. For multi-disc clutches, follow the kit instructions regarding the order of discs and floater plates. Some Stage 3 kits use a marcel (spring cushion) between plates; do not omit it.

Step 4: Install the Pressure Plate

Place the pressure plate over the disc and alignment tool. Some pressure plates have locating pins or a specific orientation – check the kit paperwork. Install the bolts finger-tight, then tighten in a star pattern to the specified torque (often 35-45 ft-lb). Over-torquing can distort the diaphragm spring, leading to grabbing or not releasing. After all bolts are torqued, remove the alignment tool.

Step 5: Lubricate the Input Shaft

Apply a very thin layer of high-temp moly grease to the input shaft splines. Too much grease can contaminate the clutch disc. Also lightly grease the release bearing hub and contact surface on the pressure plate diaphragm fingers.

Note: Some Clutch Masters kits include a new concentric slave cylinder (CSC) if the vehicle uses a hydraulic throw-out bearing. Replace the CSC now while the transmission is out – it is a common failure point in high-mileage builds.

Reinstalling the Transmission

With the new clutch ready, reinstall the transmission carefully to avoid damaging the disc or input shaft.

Step 1: Prepare the Transmission

If you removed the transmission mount, reinstall it. Check the release bearing fork and pivot ball for wear. Grease the fork pivot lightly. Place the release bearing on the fork – make sure it clips onto the fork correctly.

Step 2: Slide the Transmission into Place

Lift the transmission and align the input shaft with the clutch disc splines. Slowly push the transmission forward while rotating the output shaft slightly to engage the splines. Do not force it – if it stops, the alignment may be off or the disc may have shifted. Have an assistant rotate the crankshaft using a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt as the splines mesh. Once the bellhousing contacts the engine block, the transmission should seat without gap. If you feel resistance, stop and check the alignment.

Step 3: Install Bellhousing Bolts

Hand-thread all bolts first, then torque them in sequence to the factory specification. Do not overtighten. Reinstall the starter motor if it was removed.

Step 4: Reconnect Drivetrain Components

Reinstall the driveshaft or axles. For RWD, apply thread locker to the driveshaft bolts and torque to spec. For FWD, reinstall axles by pressing them into the differential until the snap ring seats. Reconnect the clutch slave cylinder – if you replaced the CSC, bleed the system using a pressure bleeder or vacuum pump.

Step 5: Refill Transmission Fluid

Fill the transmission with the correct volume and type of gear oil. Check for leaks around the axles or driveshaft.

Final Steps

After the transmission is reinstalled and fluids are filled, complete the final assembly.

  • Reinstall any exhaust components that were removed, using new gaskets if needed.
  • Reinstall the wheels and torque lug nuts to spec.
  • Lower the vehicle from the jack stands.
  • Reconnect the battery – start with positive, then negative.
  • Bleed the clutch if you opened the hydraulic system. Pedal should feel firm and disengage within the first inch of travel.
  • Start the engine – listen for unusual noises. With the foot off the clutch, shift through all gears (engine off) to verify engagement.
  • Perform a test drive on a clear road. Begin with gentle shifts to bed in the new clutch. Avoid full-throttle launches for the first 300-500 miles to allow proper break-in.

Check for leaks under the car after the first drive and retorque any loose bolts after the bed-in period.

Expected Gains and Driving Impressions

The Clutch Masters Stage 3 transforms the driving experience at high power levels. Here are the tangible improvements:

  • No slippage – The clutch holds full torque even at 600+ hp, eliminating the frustrating power loss from clutch slip.
  • Sharper engagement – The multi-disc design offers faster lock-up, which translates to quicker shift times and more immediate power delivery.
  • Improved heat management – The heavy-duty pressure plate and friction materials resist fade during extended hard driving, such as track days or canyon runs.
  • Consistent pedal feel – While the pedal is heavier than stock, the engagement point remains predictable after the disc beds in.
  • Higher rev-matching precision – A stiffer clutch allows for more accurate blipping on downshifts, aiding performance in spirited driving.

Drivers should expect a stiffer pedal effort – typically 30-50% more than a stock clutch. This is normal and indicates the increased clamp load. Some noise, such as gear rattle at idle, is also common with multi-disc clutches due to the marcel cushions. This is not a defect.

For those considering the upgrade, it is important to pair the clutch with a properly tuned engine control unit (ECU) to eliminate torque spikes that could stress the drivetrain. A Clutch Masters Stage 3 kit is available for many popular platforms, including the Mazda MX-5, Ford Mustang, Subaru WRX/STI, and Honda S2000.

Maintenance Tips for Longevity

To maximize the life of your Clutch Masters Stage 3:

  • Avoid slipping the clutch excessively – use the clutch only for starting from a stop and for shifts.
  • Use quality transmission fluid and change it per the manufacturer’s schedule. Contaminated fluid can transfer debris to the clutch.
  • If you track the car, consider adding a transmission cooler if your platform allows.
  • Periodically check the clutch adjustment (if applicable) and slave cylinder for fluid leaks.
  • Break-in the clutch properly – about 300-500 miles of moderate driving with gradual revs and avoiding repeated hard launches.

For further reading on clutch technology and selection, refer to the Clutch Masters Technical Support page or community forums such as FT86 Club for owner experiences.

Conclusion

Installing a Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch is one of the most rewarding upgrades for any vehicle capable of 500+ horsepower. The step-by-step process outlined here covers the essential tasks, but always consult your specific vehicle service manual and the Clutch Masters installation instructions for torque specs and alignment details. With proper installation and break-in, this clutch will handle the abuse of high-horsepower driving while delivering a satisfying, performance-oriented pedal feel. Your engine can now breathe freely, and your drivetrain will be ready for every launch and gear change you throw at it.