Upgrading to a Greddy exhaust system is one of the most rewarding modifications you can make to your Dodge Stealth. Not only does it liberate horsepower and torque by reducing backpressure, but it also transforms the car’s exhaust note from a muted growl into an aggressive, performance-oriented roar that complements the 3.0L V6’s character. This guide provides a comprehensive walkthrough of the installation process, from selecting the right system to final leak checks, along with a detailed cost breakdown so you can budget confidently. Whether you’re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or a Stealth owner tackling your first major upgrade, these instructions will help you achieve a professional-quality installation.

Choosing the Right Greddy Exhaust System for Your Dodge Stealth

Before you lift a wrench, it’s important to confirm you have the correct system. The Dodge Stealth (1991–1996) shares its platform with the Mitsubishi 3000GT, and most Greddy exhausts designed for the 3000GT fit the Stealth with minor variations in hanger placement or tip style. Greddy offers several generations of their Evolution GT and Titanium Premium cat-back systems. The Evolution GT is a popular choice, combining a stainless steel main pipe with a titanium muffler canister to save weight while delivering a deep, refined tone. The Titanium Premium is lighter still and produces a sharper note. Both systems typically include polished stainless steel tips, all necessary hardware, and a gasket for the cat-to-midpipe connection. Verify your Stealth’s model year and drivetrain (base, ES, R/T, or R/T Turbo) before ordering, as turbo models have different pipe routing due to the intercooler and wastegate positions. A good source for compatibility checks is the 3SX Performance website, which specializes in Stealth and 3000GT parts.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools on hand will save you trips to the auto parts store and prevent frustration. Below is a comprehensive list, including items that can make difficult steps much easier.

  • Greddy Cat-Back Exhaust System – complete with pipes, muffler, hangers, clamps, and gaskets.
  • Socket Set (3/8″ and 1/2″ drive) – metric sizes 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm.
  • Combination Wrench Set – metric 10mm to 19mm, plus a 14mm ratcheting wrench for tight spaces.
  • Jack and Two Jack Stands – a low-profile floor jack is ideal; never rely on the factory scissor jack.
  • PB Blaster or Penetrating Oil – essential for breaking rusted bolts and exhaust hangers.
  • Exhaust Hanger Removal Tool – also called a “hanger pick” or “exhaust tool”; it pries the rubber isolators off the metal studs.
  • Anti-Seize Lubricant – copper-based is best for high-temperature exhaust hardware.
  • Torque Wrench – to ensure bolts are tightened to specification without stripping.
  • Safety Goggles and Mechanic’s Gloves – rust and sharp edges are common under a Stealth.
  • Propane Torch or Heat Gun (optional) – heating the flanges can help separate stubborn slip joints.
  • Rubber Mallet – for gently tapping stubborn hangers or misaligned pipes.
  • Duralast or Permatex Exhaust Sealant – optional but recommended on slip joints to prevent leaks.

Safety Precautions

Working under a vehicle carries inherent risks. Always park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Lift the car using the factory-recommended jack points: the front crossmember or the rear differential housing. Place jack stands under the frame rails or control arm mounts before sliding underneath. Never use cinder blocks or wood stacks as supports. The exhaust system can be hot even after a short drive – allow the vehicle to cool completely (ideally overnight) before attempting removal. Wear safety goggles to protect against falling rust and debris, and gloves to shield your hands from sharp edges on the old exhaust system.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Step 1: Preparation and Vehicle Lifting

Begin by parking the Dodge Stealth on a solid, level floor. Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires. If the car has been driven recently, let it cool for at least two hours – the catalytic converter and exhaust pipes retain heat for a long time. Using a floor jack, lift the rear of the vehicle (centered on the differential or rear subframe) and place robust jack stands under the rear frame rails. Lower the car gently onto the stands. For front access to the catalytic converter flange, you may also need to lift the front; use stands under the front jack points. Before climbing under, give the car a firm shake at each corner to confirm stability.

Step 2: Removing the Factory Exhaust System

With the vehicle safely raised, spray all exhaust flange bolts and rubber hanger isolators with penetrating oil. Allow it to soak for at least ten minutes. Start at the rear: use the exhaust hanger removal tool to pop the rubber isolators off the metal studs that support the rear muffler section. Slide the tool between the rubber and the stud, then twist to separate. Next, move to the mid-pipe section. Locate the bolts connecting the downpipe (from the catalytic converter) to the mid-pipe. On non-turbo models this is a simple two-bolt flange; on turbo R/T models there is an additional flex section that may require removing extra bracing. Use a 14mm socket and wrench to remove the bolts. If they are rusted, apply more penetrating oil and allow time to work, or gently heat the nut with a propane torch – do not heat near fuel lines. Once the bolts are free, wiggle the mid-pipe off the downpipe. You may need to use a rubber mallet to break the slip joint. Repeat the hanger removal for the mid-pipe isolators. Finally, remove the downpipe itself (if you are replacing it as part of a full turbo-back system) by unbolting it from the turbo outlet (turbo models) or exhaust manifold (non-turbo). For a standard cat-back installation, the catalytic converter stays in place. Carefully lower each section and slide it out from under the car. Inspect the old system for wear – it can help you identify any pre-existing exhaust leaks.

Step 3: Preparing the New Greddy Exhaust Components

Lay the Greddy exhaust components out on a clean surface. Familiarize yourself with the pipe routing: the system typically includes a mid-pipe (with a resonator), a rear Y-pipe (splitting to two mufflers), and a main muffler canister with tips. Greddy often ships the muffler assembly pre-assembled, but the mid-pipe may need to be slid into the Y-pipe. Apply anti-seize lubricant to all slip-joint surfaces and bolt threads – this will make future removal far easier. If your kit includes a gasket for the catalytic converter flange, place it dry (no sealant needed). For slip joints, some owners apply a thin bead of high-temp exhaust sealant to guarantee an airtight seal.

Step 4: Installing the New Exhaust System

Start from the front of the system and work backward. Lift the mid-pipe into position and connect it to the catalytic converter outlet flange. Use the supplied bolts and crush gasket (if provided) – otherwise reuse the original bolts if they are in good condition. Tighten the flange bolts to 32–36 lb-ft (43–49 Nm). Do not fully tighten yet if you need to adjust alignment later. Next, attach the Y-pipe section to the mid-pipe slip joint. Slide the pipe in until it bottoms out, then mark the location with a pencil for reference. Temporarily tighten the clamp just enough to hold it. Now install the rear muffler section. This is often the trickiest part because the hanger studs on the muffler must line up perfectly with the rubber isolators on the chassis. Lightly lubricate the rubber isolators with dish soap or silicone spray to make them easier to push onto the metal studs. Use the exhaust hanger tool to lever the rubber over the stud – do not force it with your fingers. With the muffler hanging loosely, check the bumper tip clearance. The Greddy tips should be centered in the cutouts and not touching the bumper cover. Adjust the Y-pipe slip joint so that the tips align symmetrically. Once the alignment is satisfactory, tighten all clamps and bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications. Greddy typically recommends tightening the band clamps to 30–40 lb-ft, but verify with the included instruction sheet. Finally, reinstall any heat shields or bracing that were removed.

Step 5: Final Checks and Leak Testing

With everything bolted in place, perform a full visual inspection. Make sure the exhaust does not contact the chassis, sway bar, brake lines, or fuel lines. The system should have at least 1/2″ of clearance around all components. Lower the vehicle to the ground (do not start it while on jack stands – the vibration can be dangerous). Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for any hissing or ticking sounds, which indicate a leak at the flanges or slip joints. Feel around the connections with your hand (carefully – the pipes will heat up) for escaping air. If you detect a leak, tighten the clamp or bolt slightly (1/4-turn increments) and recheck. A small leak at a slip joint can often be fixed by loosening the clamp, applying more exhaust sealant, and re-tightening. After a 5-minute idle, rev the engine gently to 2000–3000 RPM while listening for drone or rattles. If you hear any metallic contact, recheck the hanger positioning and pipe clearance. Drive the car for a few miles, then let it cool and re-torque the flange bolts and clamps – the thermal cycling can cause initial loosening.

Post-Installation Break-In and Tips

The Greddy muffler uses acoustic packing material (fiberglass or stainless steel wool) that takes about 100–200 miles to settle in. During this break-in period the exhaust note may be slightly louder or more “tinny” than the final sound. This is normal. Avoid prolonged idling in enclosed spaces as the fumes are more pronounced with a new, freer-flowing system. Inside the cabin, you may notice increased exhaust drone in the 2000–2500 RPM range – this is common with performance exhausts on the Stealth and can be mitigated by keeping the RPMs higher or adding a helmholtz resonator. After break-in, inspect the system again for any signs of leakage or looseness. Periodically check the clamp torque; it’s a good habit to do this at every oil change.

Cost Breakdown

The total investment for a Greddy exhaust installation on a Dodge Stealth varies based on whether you DIY or hire a shop, and whether you already own the tools. Below is an updated breakdown with realistic ranges.

  • Greddy EVO GT Cat-Back Exhaust – $750–$950 (depending on dealer, sales, or used market)
  • Greddy Titanium Premium Cat-Back – $1,200–$1,600
  • Shipping & Taxes – $50–$100
  • Tools & Supplies – $80–$150 (if purchasing new: penetrating oil, sealant, hanger tool, torque wrench, etc.)
  • Professional Labor – $150–$300 (hourly rate × 2–3 hours)
  • Aftermarket Gaskets or Hardware – $15–$30 (optional, but recommended for flanges)
  • Total DIY Cost (with new tools) – $880–$1,200
  • Total Shop Installation Cost – $1,050–$1,550

If you are on a tighter budget, check forums like 3SI (3/S International) for used Greddy systems – many owners upgrade and sell their old exhausts in excellent condition for around $400–$600. Just be sure to inspect for bends, rust, or worn hangers.

Performance Gains and Sound Profile

Installing a Greddy cat-back exhaust on a Dodge Stealth yields noticeable improvements. On a non-turbo R/T, expect gains of 8–12 horsepower and 10–14 lb-ft of torque at the wheels, with the most significant increase in the mid-range (3,000–5,000 RPM). Turbocharged R/T Stealths benefit even more because the reduced backpressure allows the turbos to spool faster – typical gains are 15–20 wheel horsepower with a cat-back, and up to 30 horsepower when paired with a downpipe. The sound changes from a quiet, subdued hum to a purposeful, deep baritone. At wide-open throttle the Greddy system screams with a metallic rasp (especially on the titanium variant) that turns heads. Inside the cabin, highway cruising is surprisingly civilized – the drone is minimal compared to cheaper straight-through mufflers. For reference, you can find sound clips on YouTube to compare different Greddy models.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Will a Greddy exhaust make my Stealth louder inside?
A: Yes, you will hear a deeper tone, but Greddy systems are engineered to minimize interior resonance. Most owners describe the cabin noise as “sporty but not fatiguing” during long trips.

Q: Can I install this with basic tools?
A: Yes – as long as you have metric sockets, wrenches, a jack, and penetrating oil. The most challenging part is removing rusted bolts and hangers, but patience and the right penetrant will get the job done.

Q: Does the Greddy exhaust require polishing?
A: The stainless steel pipes and tips are corrosion-resistant. Wash them with soap and water during regular car washes. If the titanium muffler canister gets fingerprints or road grime, a microfiber cloth with a mild metal polish will restore the finish.

Q: Will this affect my emissions or OBD-II readiness?
A: For a cat-back system, no – you are not removing the catalytic converter. The oxygen sensors remain in their factory locations, so the ECU will not detect any change. However, if you also remove the catalytic converter in a later upgrade, you may trigger a check engine light (P0420).

Q: How long does installation take?
A: An experienced DIYer can complete the job in 2–3 hours. A first-timer should allow 4–5 hours, especially if bolts are seized. A professional shop typically quotes 1.5–2 hours of labor.

Conclusion

Installing a Greddy exhaust system on your Dodge Stealth is a straightforward project that delivers an immediate transformation in driving excitement. Beyond the improved throttle response and weight reduction, the enhanced sound adds an emotional connection to the driving experience that no other bolt-on modification provides. By following this expanded guide, you can tackle the installation with confidence, avoid common pitfalls, and keep your budget on track. Whether you choose to DIY or entrust the work to a professional, the end result is a Stealth that sounds as fast as it looks – a true enthusiast machine that turns every commute into an event. As always, continue to maintain your new exhaust with periodic inspections, and enjoy the fruits of your labor for years to come.