Installing a RIPP supercharger on a Nissan 370Z is one of the most effective ways to unlock significant horsepower gains while maintaining drivability. The RIPP Supercharger Kit is designed for the VQ37VHR engine, offering a proven centrifugal supercharger setup that delivers smooth, linear power. While the installation is a major mechanical project, it is well within the reach of a skilled DIY enthusiast with moderate experience and the right tools. This comprehensive guide covers every aspect of the installation, from tool lists and preparation to detailed steps, tuning considerations, and long-term maintenance.

Overview of the RIPP 370Z Supercharger Kit

The RIPP Supercharger Kit is a complete forced induction system engineered to produce 8–10 psi of intercooled boost. It includes a high-flow billet compressor, a custom cast aluminum intake manifold, a water-to-air intercooler, upgraded fuel injectors (typically 550cc or larger), and a high-pressure fuel pump. Depending on the tune, this kit adds roughly 120–150 wheel horsepower over stock, bringing a naturally aspirated 370Z into the 430–460 whp range. The kit also retains factory NVH levels and allows use of the stock exhaust, making it an attractive option for those who want a reliable daily driver with serious power.

Before starting, it is critical to understand that proper tuning is mandatory. The stock ECU cannot handle the increased airflow and fueling requirements; you will need a custom tune via UpRev or ECUtek. Many owners choose to have a professional tuner handle the final tuning after mechanical installation.

Tools and Materials Required

Gather every tool and consumable before beginning to avoid mid-project trips to the parts store. Missing a single fastener can halt progress.

  • RIPP 370Z Supercharger Kit (verify that all components are present – bracket, supercharger unit, intercooler, piping, injectors, pump, belt, clamps, and hardware)
  • Socket Set – SAE and metric, 1/4” and 3/8” drive extensions, universal joints
  • Torque Wrench – that reads both in-lb and ft-lb (critical for supercharger mounting bolts)
  • Screwdrivers – flathead (for hose clamps) and Phillips/JIS (for connectors)
  • Combination Wrenches – 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Pliers – needle-nose, slip-joint, and hose clamp pliers
  • Vacuum Hose – 3/16” or 1/4” for additional connections (if needed)
  • Coolant – Nissan Long Life Blue or equivalent (50/50 pre-mix)
  • Engine Oil – 5W-30 synthetic (check your owner’s manual; you may also need a coolant flush)
  • Safety Glasses and Gloves – standard PPE for any drivetrain work
  • Shop Vacuum – to clean debris from intake ports
  • Thread Locker – blue Loctite (for bracket bolts)
  • Dielectric Grease – for electrical connectors
  • RTV Silicone – for any coolant or vacuum connections that require sealing

An extra set of hands will be helpful when lowering the supercharger into the bracket and when aligning the serpentine belt.

Preparation and Safety

Work in a clean, well-ventilated garage. If the car has been driven recently, allow the engine and exhaust to cool completely. Properly lift the vehicle using jack stands on the frame rails – do not trust a jack alone. Chock the rear wheels.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal at the battery tray. This prevents accidental short circuits and protects the ECU during disconnection of sensors. Wrap the terminal with a rag to prevent contact if it flops back.

Drain the cooling system at the radiator petcock and drain the engine oil. It is much easier to remove the intake manifold when there’s no coolant in the system, and fresh oil after installation ensures the supercharger sees clean lubrication from the start.

Lay out all the RIPP kit hardware and compare it to the instruction manual. Verify that the bracket, bolts, washers, and belt match the year and model of your 370Z (2009+). The kit is generally compatible, but there are minor differences between early and later models (e.g., throttle body orientation).

Step 1: Remove the Stock Intake System

The stock air intake assembly consists of the air filter housing, intake tube, mass airflow (MAF) sensor, and the rubber duct leading to the throttle body. Begin by unplugging the MAF sensor electrical connector and the intake air temperature sensor (if separate). Carefully remove the tube retaining clips and pull the tube free. Be gentle with the rubber seals on the MAF – do not bend them.

Next, remove the air filter housing. It is held by two 10mm bolts at the front and a push-pin clip at the rear. Lift the entire assembly out of the engine bay. Set aside all bolts and clips in a labeled container. Inspect the MAF sensor for dirt; clean it with MAF cleaner if necessary before reinstallation in the new intake piping.

Finally, remove the plastic throttle body intake tube by loosening the worm-gear clamp at the throttle body. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the rubber boot off the throttle body opening. Plug the throttle body opening with a clean rag to prevent debris from falling into the intake manifold.

Step 2: Install the Supercharger Bracket

The supercharger bracket is a robust aluminum piece that bolts to the front of the engine, replacing the stock alternator bracket. You will need to remove the alternator to access its mounting bolts. Label the alternator harness before disconnecting.

Bolt the supercharger bracket in place using the supplied hardware. Torque the bracket bolts to the value specified in the RIPP manual – typically 35–40 ft-lb for M10 bolts. Important: apply a dab of blue Loctite to each fastener. The bracket must sit perfectly flush; if it seems misaligned, check for leftover stock brackets or spacers. Some 370Z models have an accessory mount that needs to be removed first.

With the bracket secured, re-install the alternator onto the supercharger bracket. The belt routing may now be different; follow the included diagram. The alternator will be tensioned by a dedicated turnbuckle or a moving brace.

Step 3: Mount the Supercharger Unit

Now it is time to lift the supercharger unit into place. This is the heaviest single component. Place it onto the bracket and align the four mounting points. Hand-tighten the bolts first before torquing to the specified value (usually 30–35 ft-lb for M8 studs). Use a crisscross pattern to ensure even seating.

Attach the supercharger inlet piping and the charge air outlet that routes to the intercooler. The kit includes silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. Do not overtighten these clamps – just enough to seal without distorting the metal pipes. A torque of 3–4 ft-lb is sufficient for T-bolts.

Route the 2-bar MAP sensor harness carefully away from the exhaust manifold. Secure it with zip ties to avoid chafing.

Step 4: Connect the Intake and Charge Air Tubes

With the supercharger physically installed, you can connect the intake tract. The air filter will now attach to a large-diameter intake pipe that feeds the supercharger inlet. This is where the MAF sensor must be reinstalled – pay attention to the airflow direction arrow stamped on the sensor. Use the supplied silicone reducer if needed.

Next, run the charge air tubes from the supercharger outlet to the intercooler core (usually mounted in front of the radiator). Secure all couplers and tighten the clamps. After the intercooler, connect the tube leading back to the throttle body. You may need to trim the rubber throttle body boot to fit the new pipe – measure twice, cut once.

Now install the blow-off valve (BOV) that came with your kit. Typical placement is on the charge pipe near the throttle body. Use the supplied vacuum line to tap into a manifold vacuum source – the brake booster line is often used with a T-fitting. Ensure the BOV is oriented vertically to function correctly.

Step 5: Upgrade the Fuel System Components

This step is arguably the most critical. The stock fuel injectors and fuel pump cannot supply enough fuel for boost. The RIPP kit includes larger injectors (usually 550cc or 750cc depending on boost level) and a higher-flow fuel pump (often a Walbro 255 or 340 lph).

To replace the injectors, remove the fuel rails by disconnecting the factory quick-connect fuel lines (use a tool to depress the clips). Carefully pull the injectors out; discard the old O-rings. Lubricate the new O-rings with a smear of clean engine oil before pressing them into the intake manifold. Torque the fuel rail bolts to 7–9 ft-lb – do not overtighten, as the plastic intake manifold can crack.

For the fuel pump, you will need to drop the rear seat base (two clips) and remove the access plate underneath the carpet. Carefully lift the pump assembly out, noting the orientation of the float arm. Replace the pump module with the higher-flow unit provided. Be mindful of the fuel level – have the tank less than ¼ full to avoid spillage. Reassemble the pump locking ring tightly.

If your kit includes a fuel pressure regulator (FPR) and return line, that must be installed now. Most standalone FPRs are mounted near the passenger side firewall. Connect the vacuum reference line to a manifold vacuum source.

TIP: Label every fuel line before disconnecting – a misrouted return line will cause a no-start condition.

Step 6: Reconnect Battery and Check for Leaks

With all mechanical connections completed, reconnect the negative battery terminal. Do not start the engine yet. This is the time to prime the fuel system: cycle the ignition on and off three times (key to ON for 5 seconds, then OFF) to allow the fuel pump to build pressure and purge air from the injectors.

Then, perform a thorough leak check. Use a boost leak tester (a cap that seals the intake at the throttle body with a Schrader valve) or a simple spray bottle of soapy water. Pressurize the system to 10–15 psi using a bike pump. Watch for bubbles at every coupler, the supercharger mounting gasket, intercooler connections, and the fuel injector O-rings. Also check coolant hoses – the intercooler water system may have its own pump and reservoir; ensure there are no drips.

Fix any leaks before proceeding. Loose clamps are the most common culprit.

Step 7: Start the Engine and Verify Operation

Fill the engine with fresh oil and top off the coolant. If your kit includes a separate intercooler reservoir, fill that with distilled water and a coolant additive per instructions.

Start the engine. It may idle rough initially if the tune isn't loaded yet. Allow it to idle for 30 seconds, then rev it gently to 2000 RPM for a minute. Listen for any metallic noises (like belt slip or a loose pulley). Check that the supercharger spins freely – you should hear a faint whine as the revs increase.

Use a scan tool or OBD-II app to monitor coolant temperature, fuel trims, and any stored diagnostic trouble codes. Check for any DTCs related to lean mixtures or MAF sensor issues. Common P0171/P0174 indicate vacuum leaks – recheck all intake and vacuum lines.

If the engine sounds normal and there are no warning lights, proceed to a short test drive with the tune already installed. If you haven't loaded the tune yet, do not drive the car under boost. Contact your tuner to flash the ECU or install a piggyback device before any spirited driving.

Step 8: Test Drive and Tuning Considerations

Test driving a newly supercharged 370Z requires caution. Start with a low-boost setting if your tune allows multiple maps. Drive gently until the engine reaches full operating temperature. Then, in a safe location, do a few full-throttle pulls from 3000–6500 RPM in third gear. Watch the boost gauge – it should hit 8–10 psi without spiking. The charge air temperature should stay within 30°F of ambient.

Data logging is indispensable. Log parameters such as RPM, MAF voltage, fuel pressure, wideband O2 readings (if you have one installed), knock sensor activity, and ignition timing. Ideally, have the car tuned on a dyno by a professional who specializes in VQ37HR/ECUtek tuning. A qualified tuner will ensure the air/fuel ratio stays at 11.5:1 under boost and timing is safe to prevent detonation.

If you are using a pre-loaded base map, drive conservatively until you can get a custom tune. Do not exceed 7 psi without proper calibration.

Post-Installation Maintenance

Supercharger systems require more frequent maintenance than naturally aspirated engines. Change the engine oil and filter at halved intervals – every 3,000 miles is recommended. Use a high-quality synthetic oil with a high zinc content (such as Motul 8100).

Inspect the supercharger drive belt every 6 months. The belt may stretch over the first few hundred miles; retension it to the manufacturer’s spec. Check for cracking or glazing.

Wash or replace the supercharger intake air filter at every oil change – the cotton-gauze filters supplied with many kits need re-oiling. Use a dedicated recharge kit.

Flush the intercooler coolant every 12–24 months to prevent corrosion and maintain heat transfer efficiency.

Finally, keep a log of all performance data. If you notice a gradual loss of boost, check for a slipping belt or a vacuum leak at the bypass valve.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting

Belt Squeal Under Load

If the supercharger belt squeals on hard acceleration, it likely needs more tension. Check that the tensioner is at its maximum travel; if not, adjust the turnbuckle. Also ensure the belt is the correct length – kit belts sometimes vary by 10mm.

Fuel System Pressure Drops

If the fuel pressure drops above 4,500 RPM, the upgraded pump may not be getting sufficient voltage. Some installs require a relay and direct battery wiring to overcome voltage drop through stock wiring. Consider a “hot wire kit” for the fuel pump.

Idle Surge or Stalling

This is usually caused by a vacuum leak after the throttle body (mas sensor metered area). Check all intake tube connections and the intercooler charge pipes. Also verify that the idle air control valve (IACV) is not obstructed.

Excessive Heat Soak

The water-to-air intercooler can heat soak if the auxiliary pump fails or if the system is low on coolant. Listen for the intercooler pump running when the engine is on – if silent, check the fuse and relay. Consider upgrading to a larger heat exchanger if you live in a hot climate.

Conclusion

Installing a RIPP supercharger on a 370Z is a rewarding project that transforms the car’s character. By meticulously following each step, paying attention to torque values, and investing in a proper tune, you can enjoy a reliable, high-horsepower daily driver. Remember that forced induction demands disciplined maintenance and respect for the boosted engine’s limits. For additional support, refer to the RIPP installation manual, consult community forums like the370z.com for troubleshooting tips, and consider using a reputable tuning platform such as ECUtek for calibrating the ECU. For fuel system upgrades, Z1 Motorsports offers complementary components and support. With careful work, your 370Z will reward you with a thrilling, linear power delivery every time you press the throttle.