The Honda S2000 is celebrated for its near-perfect 50:50 weight distribution and high-revving F20C or F22C engines, but its suspension is the true backbone of its legendary handling. Even two decades after production ended, the AP1 and AP2 remain favorites for autocross, track days, and spirited canyon driving. However, as these cars age, bushings wear, dampers lose their gas charge, and stock ride heights can leave you wanting more grip and sharper turn-in. Upgrading to a modern coilover system or a high-performance spring-and-shock combo can transform the car without sacrificing daily comfort, provided the installation is executed correctly.

This guide covers every step of an S2000 suspension installation, from selecting the right components to final alignment and test driving. Whether you are a seasoned home mechanic or a first-timer with basic tools, following these detailed instructions will help you achieve the precision handling the S2000 chassis deserves. Always prioritize safety, use proper equipment, and adhere to torque specifications to ensure long-term reliability.

Understanding S2000 Suspension Systems

Before touching a wrench, it is essential to know what you are installing. The S2000 uses a double-wishbone front and rear suspension, a setup typically found on high-end sports cars. This geometry provides excellent camber control and tire contact patch management. Common upgrades fall into three categories:

  • Coilover Kits (Full Replacement): These replace the entire strut assembly with an adjustable height, damping, and often preload and camber plates. Examples include Öhlins DFV, KW Variant 3, and Bilstein PSS9/10. Coilovers offer the widest range of adjustment for track-focused drivers.
  • Spring-and-Shock Combo: Uses aftermarket lowering springs (e.g., Eibach Pro-Kit, Swift Spec-R) paired with performance shocks (e.g., Koni Yellows, Bilstein Sport). This option is more budget-friendly and retains near-stock ride quality if spring rates are moderate.
  • Component Upgrades: Replacing only bushings, sway bars, or sway bar end links. This is often done alongside a full suspension refresh rather than a complete system replacement.

For this step-by-step installation, we will focus on a full coilover install, as it is the most common comprehensive upgrade. The principles apply equally to replacing individual components.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the correct tools on hand prevents frustration and damage. Below is a complete list organized by necessity. Do not attempt shortcuts—torque wrenches and spring compressors are not optional when safety is at stake.

Required Tools

  • 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm sockets (deep and shallow)
  • Combination wrenches in the same sizes
  • Torque wrench with range 10–150 ft-lb (two separate wrenches ideal: 1/2" drive and 3/8" drive)
  • Floor jack and two heavy-duty jack stands (minimum 3-ton capacity)
  • Spring compressors (mandatory if reusing stock top hats or installing springs on shocks)
  • Breaker bar (18" or longer) for stubborn bolts
  • Pry bar or trim removal tool for brake line clips
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Kroil)
  • Anti-seize compound for threads
  • Blue Loctite (medium strength) for critical fasteners
  • Wire brush or brake cleaner to clean mounting points
  • Safety glasses, gloves, and a creeper

Optional but Helpful

  • Impact wrench (with controlled torque) for speed
  • Hammer (rubber or brass) to free corroded bolts
  • Feeler gauge for alignment-related adjustments
  • Digital level or angle finder for setting initial ride height

Parts and Supplies

  • New coilover kit (or shocks, springs, top hats, dust boots, bump stops)
  • OEM or aftermarket sway bar end links (replace if worn)
  • Torque-to-yield bolts for lower control arms (recommended; check service manual)
  • New cotter pins for ball joints
  • Brake line bracket zip ties (if original clips break)
  • Lubricant for rubber bushings if reusing stock arms

Preparation and Safety

Work on a level, solid surface—preferably a garage floor or paved driveway. Dirt or gravel prevents jack stands from sitting securely. Engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels (if lifting the front) or front wheels (if lifting the rear).

Setting the Ride Height Baseline

Before removing anything, measure and record the current ride height from the center of the wheel hub to the fender lip. This gives you a reference point. Most aftermarket coilovers allow a drop of 0.5–1.5 inches. Start on the conservative side; you can always lower further later. A common starting point for street-driven S2000s is a 0.75-inch drop front and rear.

Break Loose Hardened Bolts First

Spray penetrating oil on all suspension bolts—lower control arm pivot bolts, shock absorber upper and lower nuts, sway bar end links—and let it soak for at least 15 minutes. While waiting, prepare your tools and ensure your jack stands are set to the proper height.

Raising and Securing the Vehicle

Jack the front or rear at the factory jack point (the reinforced pinch weld spot). Place jack stands under the frame rails at the designated lift points—not under the suspension arms. Lower the car onto the stands so it is stable and level. For a full suspension swap, you will work one axle at a time, so keep the opposite side on the ground until you are ready to switch.

Remove the wheels and set them aside. Now you have clear access to the suspension components.

Removing the Factory Suspension (Front)

The front suspension removal on an S2000 is straightforward, but corrosion can be an obstacle. Work methodically.

Disconnect Sensors and Brake Lines

Unplug any ABS wheel speed sensor connectors, then release the sensor wire from its clips. Similarly, unclip the brake line from the bracket attached to the knuckle or shock body. Do not disconnect the brake line itself—just free it from the suspension so it does not get stretched or kinked when the knuckle moves.

Use a 14mm wrench and socket to remove the nut from the sway bar end link. The ball joint stud will spin if you do not hold the flat on the stud with an Allen key or a second wrench. On older cars, these nuts often rust; penetrating oil and patience are required. If the end link is seized, cut it off with an angle grinder and replace it.

Detach the Upper Control Arm or Shock Tower

For a coilover installation, you will leave the upper control arm attached. Remove the three 14mm nuts that hold the top of the shock/spring assembly to the shock tower (visible under the hood). On the AP1, these nuts are accessible after removing the plastic cowl trim. AP2s have slightly more room. A wobble extension helps.

Lower Control Arm and Knuckle Separation

Remove the lower shock mounting bolt (17mm) that passes through the lower control arm and the bottom of the shock. In some coilover designs, the lower bracket attaches to the knuckle directly—check your specific kit instructions. If you are replacing only springs, you must remove the entire knuckle or use spring compressors to separate the strut while still bolted. For coilovers, simply undo the lower bolt and the assembly comes free.

Tip: Use a floor jack under the lower control arm to relieve tension before removing bolts. This prevents the arm from snapping down suddenly.

Remove the Old Shock Assembly

With the top nuts removed and the lower bolt out, the strut assembly can be wiggled free. Tilt it out of the wheel well. If the spring compressor is attached, always compress the spring before removing the top nut. Never remove the top nut of a strut without a spring compressor.

For coilovers that come pre-assembled, this step is simply freeing the unit from the car.

Removing the Factory Suspension (Rear)

The rear suspension is slightly more involved due to the tight clearance around the upper shock mount.

Access the Rear Shock Tower

Access is from inside the trunk. Remove the trunk lining to expose the top shock bolts. On the driver side, you may need to move the tool kit. Use a 14mm socket to remove the two upper nuts (not three like the front).

Detach the Lower Shock Mount and Sway Bar

Remove the rear sway bar end link (14mm). Then unbolt the lower shock bolt (17mm) from the knuckle. The rear coilovers are easier to remove because the lower mount is a bolt-through design. Again, support the lower arm with a jack to control motion.

Remove the Coilover

Pull the shock out from the top through the trunk opening. On stiff coilovers with a reservoir, you may need to partially compress the spring to clear the body. Do not force it—use spring compressors if necessary.

Installing the New Suspension

Now that both axles are stripped, it is time to install your upgraded components. Follow the reverse order of removal, but pay close attention to torque specs and orientation.

Pre-Assemble the Coilovers (if needed)

If your coilovers came fully assembled, skip this step. If you are using separate shocks and springs, assemble them with the included bump stops, dust boots, and top hats. Apply anti-seize to the threaded portions that contact bearing plates. Torque the center nut of the top mount to the manufacturer's specification (typically 35–45 ft-lb). Always compress the spring safely before tightening the top nut.

Set Initial Ride Height

Most coilovers feature adjustable lower brackets or threaded bodies. Set the ride height to match your baseline measurement minus your desired drop. A good rule of thumb: for a 0.75" drop, start with the spring perch at a length that gives approximately 25mm of preload on the spring—or follow the kit's recommended starting point. Do not max out the adjustment; leave room for fine-tuning later.

Also set the damping adjustment to a middle position (e.g., 10 clicks from full soft on a 20-click range). This gives a safe starting point for the test drive.

Install the Front Coilovers

Insert the new coilover through the top of the shock tower from underneath. Guide the top studs through the holes and hand-tighten the nuts. Torque them to 28 ft-lb for the AP1 spec (check your year). Some aftermarket top hats require different torque; refer to the kit instructions.

Align the lower hole with the lower control arm or knuckle bracket. Insert the bolt and tighten the nut to 80 ft-lb front and rear (factory spec). Use Loctite on the lower bolt to prevent loosening.

Reattach the sway bar end link with a new nylon lock nut. Torque to 33 ft-lb. Confirm the end link moves freely without binding.

Reattach brake line and ABS sensor clips. Make sure the lines are not pulled tight—leave enough slack for full suspension travel. Zip-tie them if factory clips are broken.

Install the Rear Coilovers

For the rear, insert the coilover through the trunk opening, carefully aligning the top two studs. Hand-tighten the nuts, then torque to 28 ft-lb. Attach the lower bolt and torque to 80 ft-lb. Reinstall the sway bar end link.

Replace the trunk lining last, after all adjustments are finalized.

Post-Installation Adjustments

With the car still on jack stands, complete these initial adjustments.

Bounce the Suspension

Simulate settling the suspension by pushing down on the bumper or using a pry bar on the lower arm. This reduces the chance of binding when you first lower the car. Repeat a few times on each corner.

If you have access to corner weight scales, adjust ride height perches to achieve a 50:50 cross weight. Most enthusiasts skip this step, but for track work, it pays dividends. Without scales, simply adjust each corner so the car sits level side-to-side.

Critical: Professional Alignment

After lowering, the S2000's camber curve changes significantly. You must get a full four-wheel alignment at a shop familiar with double-wishbone cars. Request:

  • Camber: Front -1.5° to -2.5° for street/track; Rear -1.5° to -2.0°
  • Caster (front): As close to stock (approx. 6.5°)
  • Toe: 0° front, 1/16" toe-in rear for stability

If your coilovers include camber plates, set them for maximum caster and equal camber side-to-side. Alignment should be performed with the driver's weight simulated (or at least a half tank of fuel).

Final Checks Before Test Drive

  • Double-check all bolts: upper shock nuts, lower shock bolts, end links, sway bar brackets, and any new ball joint nuts. Torque to spec.
  • Inspect brake lines and ABS wires for clearance. Turn the steering full lock left and right to confirm no rubbing.
  • Reinstall wheels and tighten lug nuts to 80 ft-lb (staggered pattern, 2-step).
  • Lower the car to the ground. Roll it back and forth to settle the suspension, then re-torque lug nuts after a few miles.

Test Drive and Fine-Tuning

Take the car on a familiar road. Start with moderate speeds and gentle steering inputs. Listen for clunks (indicating loose bolts or end links) and check for rubbing over bumps. After a few miles, recheck torque on all suspension bolts—it is normal for new components to settle.

Adjust damping based on feel: stiffer (more clicks clockwise) for track grip; softer (counterclockwise) for street comfort. If the car feels choppy over bumps, reduce rebound damping. If it wallows in corners, increase it. Make adjustments in 2-click increments.

If you installed adjustable sway bars, start with the softest hole and stiffen as needed to reduce understeer or oversteer.

Maintenance and Long-Term Care

Aftermarket coilovers require periodic maintenance. Clean the threads and lower brackets with a silicone-based spray to prevent corrosion. Inspect rubber boots for tears annually. If you track your car, consider rebuilding the dampers every 30,000 miles or two seasons, depending on the manufacturer.

Bushing upgrades (e.g., polyurethane or spherical bearings) can further sharpen response but increase noise and vibration. Balance your goals.

Common Pitfalls and Solutions

  • Broken sway bar end link: Often occurs when removing. Replace with quality aftermarket units (e.g., Whiteline, Hardrace).
  • Striking on large bumps: Ride height too low. Raise ¼ inch and recheck.
  • Uneven ride height after alignment: Preload binding. Loosen lower control arm bolts with car on the ground, bounce, and retighten.
  • Clunking from top mount: Loose nut or worn bearing. Tighten to spec or replace.

Resources and Further Reading

For detailed factory torque specifications, refer to the S2KI Forum suspension section. The official Honda service manual is invaluable. If you are considering alignment specs for performance, Whiteline's alignment guide for the S2000 offers a proven baseline. Lastly, reputable parts suppliers such as Evasive Motorsports and Bills Auto Works carry high-quality coilover kits and can answer fitment questions.

Conclusion

Installing a new suspension on your Honda S2000 is one of the most rewarding modifications you can perform. The car's double-wishbone geometry responds beautifully to high-quality dampers and proper spring rates, yielding sharper turn-in, better mid-corner grip, and improved confidence at the limit. By following this step-by-step guide—paying attention to preparation, torque specifications, and alignment—you will achieve a predictable, precise handling setup that transforms your S2000 into an even more capable sports car. Enjoy every mile of the result.