Selecting the right camshaft is one of the most effective ways to unlock hidden horsepower and tailor your engine’s character. For enthusiasts seeking a proven balance of noticeable power gains and everyday drivability, Lunati camshafts have long been a trusted choice. This guide will walk you through the fundamentals of camshaft function, the specific benefits of upgrading to a Lunati, how to select the perfect profile for your engine, and a detailed installation plan to ensure you achieve the advertised 15–20 horsepower increase while keeping a smooth idle. Whether you’re building a street cruiser, a weekend warrior, or a dedicated track car, making an informed cam choice is the first step toward a satisfying build.

Understanding Camshaft Basics

A camshaft is the brain of your engine’s valvetrain. It consists of a series of precisely ground lobes that push against lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms to open and close the intake and exhaust valves at specific moments in the four-stroke cycle. The camshaft’s shape – specifically its lift, duration, overlap, and lobe separation angle – dictates how much air‑fuel mixture enters the cylinder, how long it stays trapped, and how efficiently exhaust gases exit.

Understanding these fundamentals is critical because a camshaft change affects every other aspect of engine performance, from idle quality and vacuum to peak power and torque curve shape. A well‑chosen cam optimized for your engine’s displacement, cylinder heads, intake, exhaust, and intended use can transform a sluggish engine into a responsive powerhouse.

  • Lift – The maximum distance the valve is pushed open. More lift allows more airflow, but clearance tolerances (piston‑to‑valve, valve‑to‑valve) must be verified.
  • Duration – The number of crankshaft degrees the valve is held open. Longer duration lets more air in at high RPM but can reduce low‑end torque and hurt idle quality.
  • Overlap – The period when both intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously. Overlap helps scavenge exhaust and pull in fresh charge at high RPM but reduces idle vacuum and can cause a lumpy idle.
  • Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) – The angular distance between the intake and exhaust lobe centers. A tighter LSA (e.g., 108°) increases overlap and top‑end power but reduces idle quality; a wider LSA (e.g., 114°) smooths idle and broadens torque at the expense of peak power.

The interplay of these parameters is what makes cam selection both an art and a science. Decades of engineering and dyno testing have gone into Lunati’s camshaft designs to deliver real‑world gains without ruining street manners.

Benefits of Upgrading to a Lunati Camshaft

Lunati is one of the oldest and most respected names in camshaft manufacturing. Their line‑up includes the legendary Voodoo series, the budget‑friendly High Efficiency grinds, and specialized offerings for LS, LT, Ford Modular, and Gen III Hemi engines. Here are the tangible benefits you can expect from swapping in a Lunati cam:

  • 15–20 Horsepower Gains – Many Lunati street cam profiles reliably add this level of power on a normally aspirated small‑block, with minimal changes elsewhere. On larger displacement engines equipped with good heads and intake, gains can exceed 30 HP.
  • Improved Low‑End and Mid‑Range Torque – Unlike aggressive competition cams that sacrifice streetability, Lunati’s Voodoo technology uses asymmetrical lobe designs to accelerate the valve quickly, hold it open longer on the intake side, and close it gently. This improves cylinder filling at lower RPM, giving you a broader torque curve you can feel leaving a stoplight.
  • Maintained Drivability and Smooth Idle – With proper matching of LSA and duration, Lunati cams deliver a healthy lope without needing a high‑stall converter, aggressive idle tuning, or manual throttle manipulation. Many of their “street” grinds pull 12–14 in‑Hg of vacuum, enough for power brakes and accessories.
  • Durability – Lunati uses premium steel cores (cast iron for some stock‑replacement grinds, billet steel for high‑lift performance) and precision grinding to ensure consistent lobe profiles and long lifter life.
  • Plug‑and‑Play Compatibility – Most Lunati camshafts are designed to work with factory or aftermarket valvetrain components that meet basic upgrade requirements (valve springs, pushrods, and possibly retainers). They publish all specs (duration at .050”, lobe lift, LSA) so you can verify clearance before installation.

By selecting a camshaft that matches your engine’s displacement and your driving goals, you can achieve that “seat‑of‑the‑pants” improvement while still driving the car to work or to the cruise night.

Selecting the Right Lunati Camshaft

Choosing the correct camshaft requires honest assessment of your engine buildup and how you plan to use the car. Below are the key decision points.

Engine Type and Displacement

Lunati offers camshafts for nearly every popular platform: Chevy small‑block (SBC) and big‑block (BBC), Ford Windsor and FE, Chrysler LA and B‑series, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, and modern LS/LT as well as Hemi. Your engine’s displacement directly influences the ideal duration and lift. A 350ci engine will respond differently to a given cam profile than a 383 or a 408ci stroker. As a rule, larger displacement engines can handle longer duration and tighter LSAs without losing low‑end torque, while smaller engines benefit from moderate duration and a wider LSA to preserve street manners.

Intended Use – Street, Street/Strip, or Race

Lunati categorizes their camshafts into application groups. Be honest about your use:

  • Street – Look for cams with duration around 210–220° at .050” lift and LSAs of 112–114°. These provide a noticeable but mild idle, good vacuum, and strong torque from 1,500–5,000 RPM. Expect 15–20 HP over stock.
  • Street/Strip – Duration in the 220–235° range with LSAs of 108–112°. Idle becomes more aggressive, vacuum drops to 10–12 in‑Hg (may require power brake booster upgrade), and the power band moves up to 2,500–6,000 RPM. Gains of 20–35 HP are typical.
  • Race – Duration above 240° with tight LSAs (106–108°). Idle is rough, vacuum is low, and you need a high‑stall converter, sticky tires, and suspension work. Horsepower gains are substantial but at the expense of all street civility.

For most enthusiasts, a street or street/strip grind from Lunati’s Voodoo or High Efficiency series will hit the sweet spot.

Lift and Duration – Matching Your Cylinder Heads

Before selecting a cam, check the flow capability of your cylinder heads and the maximum lift they can safely handle. Lunati publishes the “valve lift” for each cam (net lift after rocker ratio). Your valvetrain – springs, retainers, valve guides – must be compatible. Lunati recommends upgrading valve springs with any cam that has more than .450” lift to prevent valve float. For LS engines, many aftermarket cams require .550”‑.600” lift springs and hardened pushrods.

Similarly, duration at .050” is the standard industry measurement to compare cams. A street cam will be in the 210–224° range; more aggressive cams go higher. Longer duration shifts the power band upward, so gear ratio and converter stall speed should be selected accordingly.

Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) – Tuning the Idle and Power Curve

LSA is often overlooked but dramatically affects character. A 112° LSA is a versatile choice that provides decent idle, good vacuum, and balanced power across the RPM range. A 108° LSA gives more top‑end rush, a choppy idle, and peakier torque – better for a lightweight car with a manual transmission or a high‑stall converter. A 114° LSA smooths idle and broadens the torque curve, ideal for heavy street cars with automatic transmissions and stock‑style torque converters.

Lunati provides the LSA for every cam, so you can match it to your chassis and transmission. For a daily driver with a 3.08‑3.55 gear and a stock converter, a 112–114° LSA is the smart choice.

Camshaft Specifications Explained

To make an informed purchase, you need to read and understand a spec sheet. Here’s a quick glossary of the numbers you’ll see on Lunati’s website or catalog.

  • Gross Valve Lift – The lift at the valve before accounting for rocker arm ratio; Lunati lists this for each cam.
  • Duration at .050” – The number of crankshaft degrees the valve is opened more than .050”. This measurement filters out the ramp noise and is the standard for comparing cam timing.
  • Advertised Duration – Total degrees the valve is open (often measured at .006” lift). Not as useful for comparison but helps understand the cam’s idle and overlap characteristics.
  • Lobe Lift – The lift at the cam lobe before rocker multiplication. Multiply by rocker ratio to get valve lift.
  • Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) – As discussed, measured in cam degrees (not crank degrees). Most Lunati cams range from 106° to 114°.
  • Intake Centerline – The position of the intake lobe center relative to the crankshaft. This can be advanced or retarded to fine‑tune the power band.

Lunati also includes “recommended valve spring part number” and “maximum valve lift with these springs” so you can order everything at once.

Installation Tips for Your Lunati Camshaft

Proper installation is every bit as important as choosing the right cam. A mistake during installation can lead to premature wear, poor performance, or catastrophic engine damage. Follow these steps for a successful swap.

Preparation and Tool List

  • Lunati camshaft and lifter set (always replace lifters – never reuse old ones with a new cam)
  • New valve springs (recommended by Lunati for your cam profile)
  • Cam bearing installation tool (if replacing old bearings)
  • Timing chain and gears (Chevrolet single‑roller or double‑roller depending on year)
  • Dial indicator and magnetic base for degreeing the cam
  • Degree wheel and a piston stop (for verifying cam timing)
  • Torque wrench, socket set, engine assembly lube, break‑in oil additive (ZDDP)
  • Shop manual for your specific engine

Step 1 – Remove Existing Camshaft

Drain coolant, remove radiator, water pump, harmonic balancer, timing cover, timing chain, and gears. Unbolt the camshaft retainer plate (Chevy) or thrust plate (Ford). Carefully slide the old cam out of the engine block, being cautious not to nick the cam bearings. If you’re upgrading valve springs, you’ll need to remove the cylinder heads or use an on‑car spring compressor to access the springs with heads in place.

Step 2 – Install New Camshaft

Coat each cam lobe with a high‑quality cam and lifter assembly lube (moly‑based). Apply generous assembly lube to the lifter faces as well. Slide the new Lunati cam into the block, rotating it to align with the bearing journals. Install the retainer plate and torque to spec. Install the new timing set, aligning the marks for the correct cam timing (usually straight up at 0° advance for a stock replacement or as specified by Lunati for an advanced/retarded grind).

Step 3 – Degree the Camshaft

Degreeing verifies the cam is installed at the intended intake centerline. Use a degree wheel on the crankshaft, a dial indicator on the #1 intake lifter or pushrod, and a piston stop to find true TDC. Rotate the engine to find maximum lobe lift, then measure the centerline. Lunati publishes the intake centerline for each cam (e.g., 108°). If it’s off, you can advance or retard the cam by using offset bushings or adjusting the keyway on the timing gear. This step is critical for achieving the advertised performance – even a 2° error can shift the power band noticeably.

Step 4 – Check Piston‑to‑Valve Clearance

With the cam degreeed and the cylinder heads installed (if removed), check clearance by placing a strip of clay on the piston dome at the valve relief location. Rotate the engine by hand through at least two full cycles. Remove the head and measure the thinnest indentation. Minimum clearance: .080” intake, .100” exhaust for steel rods; add .010‑.020” for aluminum rods. If clearance is insufficient, you may need flycut the pistons or use a different cam.

Step 5 – Install Lifter and Valvetrain

Install new lifters (soak them in oil before insertion). If using hydraulic rollers, ensure they are pre‑loaded correctly. For flat tappet cams, use a high‑zinc break‑in oil. With the recommended valve springs installed, check pushrod length with a pushrod length checker to ensure proper rocker arm geometry. Torque rocker studs and adjust valves according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6 – Break‑In Procedure

Flat tappet cams require a strict break‑in: prime the oil system, start the engine and immediately bring RPM to 2,000–2,500. Vary between 2,000 and 3,000 for 20–30 minutes while monitoring valve train noise and oil pressure. Do not let the engine idle – low oil splash on the lobes can cause lobe failure. After break‑in, change oil and filter. Roller cams are less sensitive, but still recommend a short break‑in before aggressive driving.

Post-Installation Tuning

A new camshaft changes the engine’s volumetric efficiency at different RPM, so fuel and spark timing need adjustment.

  • Carbureted Engines – Richen the idle mixture screws and possibly re‑jet the primary and secondary circuits. Expect to increase idle fuel flow at least one size. Adjust idle speed screw to maintain smooth idle.
  • EFI Engines – Use a wideband O2 sensor to tune the fuel table. Many LS and modern engines require a retune to realize full power; a mail‑order tune from a reputable shop is a good investment.
  • Ignition Timing – Advance or retard total timing to suit the new cam’s power band. Start with the factory baseline, then add 2–4° of initial timing if idle quality is poor. Adjust vacuum advance can to match the cam’s vacuum output.
  • Valve Lash (Solid Cams) – If you selected a solid lifter cam, cold lash settings are critical. Lunati provides the recommended clearance; check after first 500 miles to ensure no settling.
  • Listen for Issues – Watch for valve float at high RPM, excessive valvetrain noise, or oil starvation. Break the engine in gradually with varying loads.

Proper tuning translates the camshaft’s potential into real‑world performance. Without it, you may leave 5–10 horsepower on the table or risk detonation.

Conclusion

Selecting and installing a Lunati camshaft is one of the most rewarding upgrades you can make to your engine. With a well‑matched profile, a 15–20 horsepower gain (and often more) is realistic, all while preserving a smooth idle and good street manners. The key is taking the time to understand your engine’s specs, choosing a cam that aligns with your drivetrain and driving style, and executing the installation with care – including degreeing the cam and proper break‑in.

For further reading and to view Lunati’s full catalog, visit their official website or a trusted distributor like Summit Racing. For technical tips on degreeing and installation, Lunati’s tech support and forums like Summit Racing offer community wisdom. If you’re new to cam swaps, consider picking up a copy of How to Build & Modify Chevrolet Small‑Block V‑8 Engines for a deeper dive into the process.

Remember: a camshaft is just one part of a balanced engine build – when paired with matching cylinder heads, intake, exhaust, and tuning, your Lunati cam will deliver the power and personality you’ve been dreaming of. Happy wrenching!