Why Upgrade to a Clutch Masters Stage 3 Clutch?

If you’re pushing more horsepower through your car with bolt-ons, a turbo kit, or a tune, your stock clutch will likely become a weak link. The Clutch Masters Stage 3 kit is engineered to handle up to roughly 450–500 ft-lbs of torque (depending on the application), making it ideal for street-driven cars that see occasional track days or aggressive driving. The $1,200 investment typically includes the clutch disc, pressure plate, flywheel, throwout bearing, and alignment tool — and if you handle the install yourself, you save $600–$1,000 in labor.

This guide walks you through the entire process, from gathering tools to the post-install break-in. It assumes you have moderate mechanical experience and a well-equipped garage. Let’s get to work.

What You Will Need

Clutch Kit

  • Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch kit (confirm fitment for your make/model)

Tools

  • Socket set (metric and SAE), wrenches, screwdrivers
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb and in-lb ranges)
  • Jack and four jack stands (or a lift)
  • Transmission jack or a sturdy floor jack with a padded adapter
  • Clutch alignment tool (usually included with the kit)
  • Pilot bearing puller / slide hammer (if replacing the pilot bearing)
  • Flywheel holding tool (or a strap wrench)
  • Brake cleaner, shop rags, penetrating oil
  • Safety glasses, gloves, and ear protection

Supplies

  • Transmission fluid (check factory spec; some use GL-4, others ATF)
  • Anti-seize compound for bolts that contact aluminum
  • Thread-locker (medium-strength blue Loctite is recommended for pressure plate bolts)
  • Optional: new pilot bearing and rear main seal (good practice while the transmission is out)

Preparation Steps

Set yourself up for success. A clean, well-lit workspace with level concrete is ideal. Park the car, chock the rear wheels, and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove any interior components that block access to the transmission shifter if necessary (some vehicles require removing the shift knob and boot).

  1. Raise and secure the vehicle. Lift the front (or both ends) high enough to slide the transmission out from underneath. Use jack stands at the frame rails or designated lift points. Never rely on a jack alone.
  2. Drain the transmission fluid. It’s messy but necessary — remove the drain plug and let the fluid flow into a catch pan. Reinstall the plug loosely to keep debris out.
  3. Remove undercarriage covers and the exhaust downpipe or midpipe if it blocks transmission removal. Mark or bag bolts.
  4. Disconnect the driveshaft (rear-wheel drive) or half-shafts (FWD/4WD). For RWD, mark the flanges before separating them to maintain balance. For FWD, remove the axle nuts and pop the axles out of the transmission.
  5. Unhook the clutch slave cylinder — usually two bolts and a hydraulic line. Do not let the slave hang by the line; zip-tie it out of the way.
  6. Remove the starter motor (two bolts typically). Label the wire positions.
  7. Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Remove the crossmember and transmission mount.

With the transmission free, double-check that all wiring harness clips, ground straps, and shifter linkage are detached. Then slide the transmission rearward until it clears the engine block. Lower it carefully — the input shaft is fragile and the unit is heavy (50–100 lbs).

Removing the Old Clutch

Now you’re looking at the flywheel and pressure plate. Before unbolting anything, spray a bit of brake cleaner around the bell housing area to remove loose dirt.

Inspect and Remove the Flywheel

  • Mark the position of the old pressure plate relative to the flywheel (some are indexed).
  • Loosen the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc together.
  • Unbolt the flywheel. If it’s a dual-mass or stepped flywheel, note any shims. Torque the flywheel bolts when reinstalling per factory spec (usually 80–100 ft-lbs for most applications).
  • Inspect the flywheel surface: look for bluing (overheating), scoring, or cracks. If it’s in good shape, you can reuse it, but Clutch Masters recommends having it resurfaced if there’s any wear pattern. Some prefer to replace with the included billet flywheel for better weight reduction.

With the flywheel off, you have access to the crankshaft pilot bearing/bushing (manual trans) and the rear main seal. A failed pilot bearing causes noise and vibration, and an oil leak from the rear main will contaminate your new clutch. Use a puller to remove the old bearing, then tap in the new one with a socket. Replace the seal using a seal driver. This adds about $50 in parts but prevents heartache later.

Also check the clutch fork, pivot ball, and throwout bearing (release bearing). The Clutch Masters Stage 3 kit includes a new bearing, so replace it regardless.

Installing the Clutch Masters Stage 3 Clutch

Preparing the Flywheel

  • Clean the flywheel friction surface with brake cleaner and a lint-free cloth.
  • If you’re using the Clutch Masters flywheel (many kits include one), install it first. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the bolt threads.
    Torque pattern: tighten bolts in a star pattern to spec (often 70–85 ft-lbs). Use Loctite if specified.

Installing the Clutch Disc and Pressure Plate

  1. Position the clutch disc against the flywheel. The disc is marked “flywheel side” — ensure that side faces the engine. Some discs have a raised hub; the longer side typically faces the transmission.
  2. Insert the alignment tool through the disc and into the pilot bearing. Wiggle it until the disc is centered — the tool should slide in smoothly and spin freely.
  3. Place the pressure plate over the disc, aligning the dowel pins on the flywheel with the holes in the pressure plate.
  4. Thread the pressure plate bolts finger-tight, then tighten in a crisscross pattern in three stages: first to 15 ft-lbs, then to 25 ft-lbs, and finally to the spec listed on the instructions (typically 30–40 ft-lbs). Use a torque wrench and apply blue Loctite to the threads. Do not overtighten — it can warp the pressure plate.
  5. Remove the alignment tool. Give the clutch disc a gentle spin by hand — it should rotate freely without binding.

Pro tip: Before final torquing, double-check that the clutch disc splines align with the input shaft. The alignment tool only centers the disc on the pilot bearing; the splines must engage later.

Reinstalling the Transmission

This step is often the most frustrating. The input shaft splines must slide into the clutch disc, and the release bearing must mate with the pressure plate fingers.

Preparation for Reinstallation

  • Clean the transmission input shaft splines with a wire brush, then apply a thin layer of high-temperature grease (white lithium or moly) to the splines. Too much grease will contaminate the clutch.
  • Replace the pilot bearing if you didn’t already. Apply a small amount of grease inside the bearing.
  • Install the new throwout bearing onto the clutch fork. Some are clip-on, others slide. Check that the fork pivots smoothly.

Lifting the Transmission Into Place

  1. With the transmission supported on a jack, angle it so the input shaft points toward the engine.
  2. Slide the transmission forward until the input shaft enters the pressure plate opening. You may need to rock the transmission slightly.
  3. If it won’t slide on easily, do not use force. Check that the clutch disc is still centered (use the alignment tool again if needed). Also verify that no wiring or hose is caught between the engine and bell housing.
  4. Once the bell housing contacts the engine block, install the two upper bell housing bolts to pull it flush. Never tighten bolts to close a gap — it will damage the clutch.
  5. Torque all bell housing bolts to spec (often 35–45 ft-lbs for M12 bolts).

Reattach Everything

  • Mount the starter with the correct spacers (some applications require shims). Ground wire first.
  • Reconnect the clutch slave cylinder. Bleed the hydraulic system if you disconnected the line — use a helper or a pressure bleeder. Air in the line results in a spongy pedal and clutch drag.
  • Install the driveshaft (or axles). Use new circlips for half-shafts.
  • Reattach the crossmember, exhaust, and undercarriage covers.
  • Fill the transmission with the recommended fluid (check capacity).
  • Reconnect the battery.

Final Steps and Testing

Before lowering the car, do a quick check:

  • Crank the engine with the transmission in neutral and the clutch depressed — listen for odd noises.
  • With the engine running (trans in neutral), press the clutch pedal. It should have moderate resistance and engage about halfway from the floor.
  • Shift through all gears with the engine running. The shifter should move freely.

Now, lower the car and take it for a gentle test drive. The Clutch Masters Stage 3 uses a sintered iron or organic/metallic hybrid disc that requires a break-in period.

Break-In Procedure (Critical)

Do not abuse the clutch for the first 500–700 miles. Avoid hard launches, aggressive starts from a stop, and high-rpm shifts. Instead, make gradual starts in traffic, using the clutch normally but without slipping it excessively. This “bedding in” process allows the disc and flywheel to mate evenly. Failure to break in properly can lead to chatter, glazing, or premature wear.

After break-in, you can enjoy the full benefits: minimal pedal effort (often lighter than stock), faster shifts, and no slippage under WOT. The Stage 3 has a slightly aggressive engagement, so take a few drives to get used to it.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Misalignment of the clutch disc – always use the alignment tool. Even a 1/16″ offset makes transmission install nearly impossible.
  • Oily flywheel or disc – ensure no oil leaks from the rear main seal. A dry installation is essential.
  • Incorrect release bearing orientation – the Clutch Masters kit has a specific bearing. Compare the old one with the new before installation.
  • Overlooking the pilot bearing – a worn or misaligned pilot bearing will cause vibration and noise after the swap.
  • Skipping the break-in – can lead to inconsistent pedal feel and reduced grip.

Conclusion

Installing a Clutch Masters Stage 3 clutch yourself is a rewarding weekend project that upgrades your car’s drivability and performance for around $1,200 (including incidentals). By following this detailed guide, you avoid costly labor charges and gain confidence in your mechanical skills. Remember to use quality tools, replace wear items while you’re in there, and respect the break-in period.

For further reading, check out Clutch Masters’ official technical resources, the How a Car Works clutch section for fundamentals, and a forum like Bob Is The Oil Guy for transmission fluid advice.