Installing a cold air intake on your W213 E63 is one of the most effective bolt-on modifications you can make to unlock hidden power and sharpen throttle response. The M177/M178 4.0L twin-turbo V8 under the hood responds eagerly to improved induction airflow. This expanded guide covers every aspect of the upgrade – from understanding why the stock system leaves power on the table, to a detailed installation walkthrough, real-world dyno results, and long-term maintenance tips. Whether you are a first-time DIYer or a seasoned performance enthusiast, the following information will help you execute the job with confidence and extract maximum gains from your cold air intake investment.

Understanding the W213 E63 Air Intake System

The factory air intake on the W213 E63 AMG is a highly engineered unit that includes a pair of airboxes, paper panel filters, and plastic ducting that routes incoming air through the front bumper. While adequate for normal driving, the stock system introduces several restrictions that limit the engine’s ability to breathe at higher RPMs and under boosted conditions.

Stock System Limitations

  • Restrictive air boxes: The OEM housings create turbulence and pressure drops, especially once the turbos spool hard.
  • Paper filters: Stock filters prioritize filtration over flow; they quickly become loaded with debris, further choking airflow.
  • Tortuous ducting: The factory intake path includes multiple bends and resonance chambers that slow down air velocity.
  • Heat soak: The airboxes are positioned near the hot engine block, and the stock design does not effectively isolate intake air from engine bay heat.

How a Cold Air Intake Improves Performance

An aftermarket cold air intake addresses each of these shortcomings with larger-diameter smooth tubing, high-flow (often cotton or synthetic) filters, and heat shields that isolate the intake from radiant engine heat. The result is a denser, cooler air charge delivered to the turbocharger inlets. This allows the turbos to work less to achieve the same boost pressure – or to flow more air at a given boost level. The ECU will adapt to the increased airflow by adding more fuel and timing, translating directly into horsepower and torque gains. Additionally, the removal of the silencer chambers produces a much more aggressive intake and turbo spool sound that enthusiasts find highly rewarding.

Tools and Materials Required

Before beginning, gather the following items. Having everything on hand will make the installation smooth and prevent frustrating trips to the tool box.

  • Cold air intake kit of choice (e.g., Eventuri, RennTech, or a reputable brand)
  • Set of metric sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm (deep and shallow)
  • Ratchet, extension, and universal joint
  • Flathead screwdriver (for prying clips and releasing wire harness locks)
  • T25 or T30 Torx bit (depending on intake kit hardware)
  • Torque wrench (capable of in-lbs for small fasteners)
  • Shop towels and isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning mounting surfaces)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic gloves
  • Penetrating oil (if fasteners appear rusty)
  • Electrical tape or zip ties (for tidying any loose wiring or hoses)

Note: Some aftermarket kits may require specific tools such as a hex key or specialized socket. Always review the manufacturer’s instructions before starting.

Preparation and Safety

Proper preparation ensures a safe and efficient installation. Follow these steps before you touch any fasteners.

  • Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the parking brake.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket. Isolate the terminal to prevent accidental contact. This step eliminates the risk of short circuits when working near the mass airflow sensor and electrical connectors.
  • Allow the engine to cool completely. The turbos and exhaust manifolds retain heat for hours; working on a hot engine increases the chance of burns and can cause heat-related damage to sensitive components.
  • Remove any aftermarket engine covers or trim pieces that may obstruct access to the intake area. Many W213 owners also remove the decorative engine cover held by a few push clips.
  • Inspect the area around the airboxes for debris, leaves, or dirt. Clean the surface with a shop towel to avoid foreign material falling into the intake tract.

Removal of the Stock Air Intake

The stock intake removal is straightforward, but care must be taken not to damage the fragile MAF sensor or the plastic housings. Work on one side at a time if you are doing a full dual-intake system.

  1. Access the MAF connectors: Each intake side has a mass airflow sensor located on the factory intake tube. Press the locking tab and pull the connector straight out. Do not pull on the wires.
  2. Unclip the intake snorkels: The front intake ducting is secured with small plastic clips and sometimes a few Phillips screws. Remove these to free the snorkel from the grille area.
  3. Loosen the clamps: Using a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket, loosen the hose clamp at the connection between the intake tube and the turbo inlet. There is also a clamp at the airbox outlet.
  4. Detach the airbox: The stock airbox is typically held in place by rubber grommets and a couple of bolts at the bottom. Lift the airbox upward to disengage the grommets. Set it aside.
  5. Remove the intake tube: With the airbox removed, pull the intake tube away from the turbo inlet. Rotate as needed to clear the fan shroud and other components.
  6. Repeat on the other side (if your kit replaces both sides).
  7. Clean the turbo inlets: Using a lint-free cloth, wipe the turbo inlet openings to remove any oil or debris. Do not drop anything into the turbo compressor wheel.

At this point you should have a clear view of both turbo inlets and the surrounding area. Inspect the rubber couplers or O-rings for any signs of wear.

Installation of the New Cold Air Intake

The installation process will vary slightly depending on your chosen kit. The following steps describe a generic installation that applies to most popular systems such as the Eventuri intake or the RennTech kit. Always defer to the included instructions for torque values and specific hardware.

Mounting the Heat Shield

Most cold air intake systems include a heat shield that bolts to the chassis or the stock airbox mounting points. Position the shield so that it fully isolates the filter from the hot engine bay. Use the supplied brackets and fasteners; tighten to the specified torque (typically 8-10 ft-lbs for M6 bolts). Do not overtighten into plastic or aluminum brackets.

Installing the Intake Tubing

Attach the new intake tube to the turbo inlet using the provided silicone coupler and T-bolt clamps. Slide the coupler onto the turbo inlet first, then place the tube into position. Tighten the clamps evenly to prevent the tube from cocking to one side. The typical torque for T-bolt clamps is around 25-35 in-lbs – enough to compress the silicone but not distort it.

Fitting the Filters and MAF Sensor

Slide the high-flow filter onto the open end of the intake tube. Secure it with the supplied clamp. If your kit uses a dry filter, no oiling is needed; if it uses an oiled cotton filter, ensure the filter is evenly pre-oiled per manufacturer instructions. Now transfer the MAF sensor from the stock tube to the new intake tube. Most aftermarket tubes have a dedicated boss with an O-ring seal. Gently push the sensor into place and secure it with the original screws or supplied hardware. Reconnect the MAF electrical connector – you should hear a positive click.

Reconnecting Ducting and Snorkels (if applicable)

Some kits reuse the factory front snorkel; others include an upgraded duct. Reattach or modify as needed. Ensure all ducting is securely fastened and that there is no chance of it rubbing against the fan or belt system.

Post-Installation Checks and Finalizing

Before lowering the hood, perform the following checks:

  • Verify all clamps are tight: Double-check each T-bolt clamp and hose clamp. Loose connections can cause unmetered air leaks, resulting in lean conditions.
  • Check for clearance: Spin the cooling fan by hand (engine off) to ensure the intake tubing does not contact any rotating components. Also check hood clearance by closing the hood (gently) and listening for any compression or rubbing.
  • Secure loose wiring: Use zip ties or electrical tape to tidy any harness segments that were moved during installation. Keep wires away from hot surfaces and moving parts.
  • Reconnect the battery: Attach the negative terminal and tighten the fastener to 8-10 ft-lbs.
  • Inspect for tools or rags: Make sure nothing was left inside the engine bay.

Start the engine and allow it to idle. Listen for any whistling, chattering, or hissing that could indicate an air leak. The idle should be smooth; the ECU will quickly adapt to the new intake. Rev the engine gently to 2000-3000 RPM several times and confirm that the sound is crisp and the idle returns to normal.

Finally, perform a short test drive of 5-10 miles at varying speeds. After the drive, park and re-check all clamps – heat cycles can cause silicone to soften, requiring a slight re-tightening.

Performance Results – Real World Gains

The W213 E63 responds particularly well to cold air intake upgrades due to the twin-turbo design. Our own testing and data gathered from W213 forums such as MBWorld show consistent gains across multiple intake brands.

Dyno Proven Gains

A typical eventuri cold air intake on a stock-tuned E63 S yields approximately 15-20 wheel horsepower and 20-25 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. The gains are most pronounced in the mid-range (3500-5500 RPM) where the turbos are spooling and the stock system becomes restrictive. Paired with a tune, the intake becomes even more valuable, supporting higher boost levels and race fuel blends. Independent dynos from multiple shops confirm that the intake alone does not require a retune – the ECU adapts within a few driving cycles, though a custom calibration can unlock the full potential.

Throttle Response and Sound

Drivers almost universally report a sharper throttle tip-in. The engine feels more eager to rev. The acoustic changes are dramatic: the intake noise becomes louder with a deep, guttural growl under acceleration, and the turbo spool sounds are more pronounced. There is no drone at cruise speed; the added sound only appears when you press the pedal.

Fuel Economy Considerations

With a cold air intake, fuel efficiency may improve slightly during steady-state cruising because the engine can draw air more easily. However, the temptations of the enhanced sound and throttle response often lead to heavier right-foot usage, which will negate any economy gains. In real-world mixed driving, expect fuel economy to remain similar to stock, with a possible 0.5-1 mpg improvement when driven conservatively.

Potential Issues and Troubleshooting

While the installation is generally straightforward, a few issues can arise.

  • Check Engine Light (CEL): A CEL after installation usually indicates an air leak or a faulty MAF connection. Re-check the MAF connector and ensure all couplers are sealed. If the light remains, have the fault codes read with an OBD-II scanner.
  • Whistling noise: A high-pitched whistle often points to a clamp that is not fully closed or a coupler that is slightly wrinkled. Reposition and re-tighten.
  • Filter rubbing on hood liner: If the filter or tube contacts the hood sound deadener, it can wear a hole over time. Add a small rubber spacer to the hood latch area or trim the hood liner slightly.
  • Water ingress concern: Most cold air intake filters are positioned in the factory airbox location, so water ingestion risk is low unless you drive through deep puddles. Avoid submerged locations. Some kits include a protective sock for added safety.

If you encounter persistent issues, consult the manufacturer’s technical support or seek advice on the W213 AMG subforum at MBWorld. The community has extensive experience with all major intake brands.

Maintenance of Cold Air Intake

To ensure continued performance, your cold air intake requires periodic maintenance.

  • Inspect the filter every 5,000 miles: In dusty or urban environments, check for debris buildup. Oiled cotton filters can be cleaned and re-oiled using a dedicated cleaning kit (kits from K&N or equivalent). Dry filters can be carefully vacuumed or rinsed with water (follow brand guidance).
  • Re-oil sparingly: Over-oiling can cause a film on the MAF sensor, leading to erratic readings. Use only the recommended amount.
  • Check clamps annually: Vibrations and thermal cycling can loosen clamps over time. Re-torque all connections during routine oil changes.
  • Replace if damaged: Even the best filters can develop tears or deformation. Replace immediately if you notice any compromise.

Regular maintenance will keep your intake flowing optimally and prevent any drivability issues.

Conclusion

Installing a cold air intake on your W213 E63 is a satisfying and rewarding project that delivers tangible performance improvements. The increase in horsepower and torque, combined with the enhanced sound, transforms the already formidable AMG into an even more exhilarating machine. With proper attention to detail during installation and a bit of routine maintenance, your cold air intake will provide years of trouble-free service and keep your engine breathing cool, dense air. Whether you choose a high-end carbon-fiber system like Eventuri or a more budget-friendly option from a reputable brand, the W213 E63 engine will thank you with every press of the throttle.